pumpin

Couple of waves at the weekend but nothing great, too much beer didn't help and it was sooo crowded! Had a crazy weekend, highs very high and lows very low but thank God for mates; it ended well and today it's clean and sunny and about 4ft by the webcam, will be out there later!!

surf, what else?

Nearly paddled out at biggish South Fistral, so nearly, but didn't feel like taking the poundings. Great Western was less windy, cleaner, about 3ft. I only took the waves marked S for Suicide! and had a ball. Made some steep drops, took a lot of straighthanders, got thrown about a bit, got some amazing speed but it was almost outrunning the pink board really. Still it was wicked and I love being one of the better surfers out there! (Town always full of kooks.) It wasn't the challenge Fistral would have been, but I got some good waves and feel like I'm really solid on that new level of mine. Hooray!

beca boys

Two to three feet at Perranporth, yay windwaves! Had the best wave I've had since moving here, the longest wave any of us got and best of all the boys (Jens and Si) were watching! They haven't seen me surf for so long, think they might have been surprised! I loved that wave, still grinning, was so fast, walled up beautifully and I didn't even think about it, it just flowed, me and my pink Sofia grip, it's given me her talent! haha, not quite, but was so fun, even floated the end section. Couple of other waves were good too and loved surfing with a couple of Beca boys.

Then wicked evening at Buzios, free beer, yakking with Si and the Bruce Movie was pretty good. Tons of people, hot as, saw one of the Dirty Sanchez boys and various pros…Good night.

harry

Bless him! One of my sis' new puppies.