stop it!

Smaller but cleaner at GW last night, bad crowd though. Usual longboarders - either kooks floating in the way or taking more than their share, though one or two were really stylish. Three groms who never shut up - 'Did you see that? Did you see that?' - and older boys paddling around and over everyone. Don't take two waves then paddle out again and snake me, boy. When there's plenty to go round and they're hassling like it's the Goldy it really pisses me off. So I had about three waves and all of them shit closeouts. Build the reef!!

Puppy Sharkbait

Just off the surfer's paradise island of La Reunion (off the east coast of Africa), fishermen are using puppies and kittens as live bait to catch sharks. Dogs have hooks passed through their noses or through tendons in their legs, the hooks are attached to lines and rods. The dogs are thrown into the water and their struggles attract sharks. "We don't see that every day, but it's not the first time, either," Marie-Annick Chantrel, vice-president of the Reunion branch of the French Society for the Protection of Animals, told a Reunion newspaper. "We've already seen cats six or seven months old with hooks in them."

The International Sea Shepherd Conservation Society are offering rewards for information leading to convictions. Also, the Fondation 30 Millions d'Amis and Brigitte Bardot's animal defence association are campaigning to have this incredibly cruel practice stopped. You can help by signing the petition online at www.30millionsdamis.fr/fr/index.asp (click on the picture of the dog with hooks in its nose). Or you can download the petition, print it and have as many people sign it as possible. Do it.

Best Surf Yet

Okay, so every surf is the most fun I've ever had in my life, but last night was THE MOST. Droskyn on the push, not too many people, three foot plus wedgy peaks. After piking on a few I lucked into a good long one and the speed was great, biggest wave I've surfed since moving down here. All those little summer sessions have definitely improved me, caught another three good ones. Fell off one right in front of Sam Lamiroy, 'you should have gone right' he says, yeah, I should have got up properly first. The speed on the last couple I had was awesome, bring on the bigger waves!! I was totally flying, it's so much easier when you don't have to fight to stay on a wave. Super happy, mojo returned.

mood today…

get fucked

Well, here's my week:

Sun - lost keys, hangover
Mon - missed best swell of year due to lost keys. Got dumped.
Tue - nice little surf. dropped in on.
Weds - haircut (hate having hair cut). missed surf.
Thurs - Told can't have any time off until mid Oct (deadlines). Loaded with work. Crap surf.
Fri - Quoted at least £250 for fixing van = no holiday in Oct, can't get out of cornwall for weekend (unless they do it today). No surf+freezing.

great western

Went out last night and got a set on the head thought I was going to die! No sleep and little food meant I had no energy to struggle. But then caught about 10 waves in an hour and was better than a lot of the guys out there which is always nice

Looked around and thought, you're all bastards so I'm going to take all your waves! haha.

Some arsehole dropped in on me at one point and there were, as ever, too many out there, but it was still good fun, got loads of lefts, made lots of drops out of the lip and had a couple of longer rights but it's mostly straighthanders out there esp when its 2ft+. Some sneakers came in at a good 3ft so Fistral would have been too much for me but I'll take a look today as I'm feeling better. Can't waste a swell like this for anything.

allweddi

Absolutely gutted. Surf picking up by the second and I chose this weekend to get ridiculously pissed and lose my keys…Two wonderful warmup sessions at Penhale and now nothing until I can get the van back on the road. Ac mae hiraeth arna i.

perranporth

Had the best little surf last night at Perranporth. Was going in Penhale, but it didn't look quite as clean as the crowded Fistral, so went south, saw Jens as was leaving. Perran still had a few too many as it was only a couple of feet, some good surfers out. Got dropped in on on first wave, uhoh, but after that found a little space. Got some good waves but nothing that really flowed, one nearly did but jeez it got all lumpy, I was laughing at it like, come on, give me a chance here! stuck on it til the bitter end anyway. One drop from top to bottom four feet, (not wave sizes but actual four feet straight down) can do it easy, it's attitude, it's I WILL make this, cos otherwise it'll be a good sound thrashing (not so bad on two foot waves but still would have been urgh) so I made it and almost round the section, but there wasn't much more to the wave anyway. Lots of peaks but not many peeling for far as it was getting high tide and fatter. Fun though.

Only one other girl out, chick on blue longboard quite good lots of waves but couldn't walk the board at all, born shortboard surfer. Ah well. I think SurfGirl should be doing a lot more longboard, retro and minimal focus cos that's what about 70% of chicks are riding. And half of those on shortboards can't surf them at all. Not that I'm so shit hot mind. Got lots of waves, lots weren't very long though. Only fucked up stupidly on a couple though.

First righthander was supreme, fast perfect takeoff and bottom turn but it had sectioned in front so just somehow did the thing the good surfers do, chasing it trying to get round, didn't lose any speed was wicked, did well with that, but no face left closeout. Another where I took off, went left, was dropped in on (oh it's a girl she's not going to catch that let alone actually make it) and so faded right instead only to find a longboarder old guy coming left as well, no room in the water any more! Sometimes really miss Wales! Just me out then Pob comes running in, how is it sufer girl, trading waves no-one else out. Doesn't happen here.

Maybe should have turned around again and surfed Penhale with Jens, but the £1.50 really grates!! And it wasn't so clean. Looked a little bigger though, and only like 3 people out. Next time, I have Perranporth wired now (!) time to move on a little. Lots of waves just too fat, take off and halfway throught he turn realise it's not happening, try to cut back but not enough speed, don't really know how to deal with those the best. Really gotta take off in the pocket I suppose.

Looking forward to the waves next week, pray the storm doesn't track over us. Shame nothing to do this weekend though, typical.

rude

Another crazy weekend; the SAS Ball wasn't all I expected, had more fun on the Sat night in town. Missed the swell on Sunday as was busy, and too tired to cope anyway!

Went for a surf Monday evening at Perranporth, tide getting too high though and the amount of rude people, never seen the like. Two people who just sat there in the way of my wave so I had to cut back and spoil it or run them over, you're supposed to move!!!! And one guy blatantly dropped in on me, a-hole. He couldn't paddle and could only go left as he was goofy, so he's going left on perfect righthanders, idiot. Too many longboarders hogging the waves too as they can get them earlier, so rude. All in all too many people with no idea, I should have gone just that bit further north…

Bring on the storm for next week, can't wait.

2ft choppy

Haven't stopped to catch breath. Surfed Droskyn last night after a mission of a search - should have stayed at Fistral, was clean but am sick of the crowds and longboard wave hogs. Had a good little session anyway, nothing amazing. Early at South this morning, quite a few in, David too. Had so many waves can't count, nothing that long but was really fun. Smacked the lip pretty hard on one, still haven't stuck one yet though. Next time. So tired!