wee

Haha almost 2 cold 2 type n smell of wee (well the boys do it) but happy wiv 1 long left 3ft clean north Fistral. Need 2 surf more am being wuss. Picking up will b gud week!!!!!!

surf more

Hmm, my new year's resolution to surf more seems to have come unstuck already…I seem to have a lot of things stopping me from surfing. Missed this week's surf stuck in London and am dying to get back in the water. Haven't had a decent session/wave for an age. Time to get the girls to come out with me - I've got all my spare stuff from home for them. It's flat here in mid-Wales but still I'm glad to be back, wish I could be here more often. Plans are afoot – money-making schemes and magazine ideas, so we'll see.

trist

Sat was rubbish everywhere. Ended up at Towan with the rest of the world - truly dangerous and near impossible to catch anything as there were kooks and rippers fighting over every 'peak'. Lots of straighthanders as usual, but at least it was a beautiful day. Soothed the soul a bit. Still had the most miserable night of my life tho…

bola tost

Wish I'd brought my wetsuit today, but have to wait for the cough to clear. And I've got a hell of a stomach ache too, weird.

silly…

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bay

Nice clean small swell pushing in, quick lunchtime surf at Gt Western, should have gone to Fistral as am sick of closeouts!! Got loads of waves but none held up, not one. No more Bay. Should be a good weekend, thank God as my last 2 surfs weren't great!

New Year

Blwyddyn Newydd Dda i bawb

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