one year on

…and a million braincells gone! First anniversary of my starting work at Carve, so also first anniversary of the onslaught on my liver that is worse than even uni - Bank Holiday bring it on!

dreaming of barrels

Fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow last night, and had the best dream in the world, catching a barrel. It was so so real, especially in that I didn't make it out! But I dropped into the wave backhand (left), something made me want to get as close to the wall as possible and the lip threw over me in a tight oval for a second or two…I could see the shoulder, the cliffs (looked like Penhale) and people as dots. Then it shut down and I was rolled out the back with a big grin…short of having Phil Macdonald in the dream too, it was as good as it gets…and I hope it's one of the ones that comes true!

can talk about surfing for ever…

Got some surf at the weekend, laid the ghosts at Watergate, first time since the absolute-kicking-in-6ft-with-3-pros-watching. Small clean, got loads. Was too hungover Sunday, must stop that…One surf with Ems too, nice to have a surf buddy. This week have been out once with Ems too but it was really crowded, ridiculous. Had a really long left and ran over a few boys hehe. Didn't expect me to actually be able to surf did you?
ooooo what a lovely day and lovely surf, I feel much better as always after a surf. I gotta stop moaning the rest of my life is so good!!
I know it's 3-4ft elsewhere but it was quick and easy to get to GW and it was 2ft clean and actually peeling and peaking oh wow. Two loggers in, went past Reef and said hi to Chrissie thunder, and his workmate, they both came out for a surf too. At first it was fucking really good, not big but gooood, had my three nice ones, nothing long all session though. then tons of people appeared and as it pushed int he banks weren't so good and we all got squashed. A kid i recogninse from the mag somewhere came out, ripping on a blue board, cute as, a mini stokesy, about 18?
too many people tho.
Yeah so had a few more shitty ones then rode one into the beach, not bad at all. I know I have to take it into hand and get the fuck out there in bigger stuff, I don't know I mean it wasn't even more than 4ft max at fistral, but for a little lunchy i dont want to drive, park, change and paddle twice over it takes ages i just wanted to enjoy…i dunno why i have to justify it really…but i gotta get into bigger peeling waves, i mean it is frustrating the one turn waves in the bay and that.
still bunged up a bit tho. didn't really take any wipeouts. it's not that that i'm worried about, it's the thrashing when paddling out. Suppose everyone's the same on beachies. There HAS to be a nice right point here somewhree, i just need to find it. Ah, the Bar. I am ready for small Bar. Miss Wales…
And it's the bashing i took at watergate last year as well I suppose, i mean if i can cope with that i can with anything up to 6ft can't i, but i don't go out looking for a walloping.
Deadline today, hmm not sure we'll make it.

small surf

Couple of small surfs in the past week, where the hell has the decent swell gone… :-(
Last night sorted me out though, God I was in a bad mood but the sea always helps, I'd forgotten what was pissing me off after the third duckdive without a hood…

And just to plug it in yet one more place: http://www.orcasurf.co.uk/carve-emag-media/

trwbl

Had a great surf last week, 6pm to sunset and caught the longest wave I've had for a very long time. Got loads of smaller ones too, very happy with that.

Birthday was carnage…good fun but caused trouble! And didn't make it to work yesterday…

Not a happy bunny today, strange things keep happening, so just praying for surf to help.

hotties!

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