backtrack

Had a wicked surf last sat as well down at porthtowan, best waves (for me) in ages. Entered the Super 6 fun contest in Porthtowan, surfed a heat on a 5'3" Noseless, was fun, got a good wave! And had another great freesurf - knackered. Mate Kelvin won then we all got pissed (for a change).

Had to go London this week but was treated to lovely 2ft waves when i got back last night. Been working my butt off thank God the deadline's nearly past.

Session at the Wedge last Fri as seen below, pic by Mike from work.

summer's over

Such a wonderful night I had. Got called a wannabe for third time this summer (hello?). Bye bye to the summer girly crew :-( just left with a vague hangover and feeling rather silly (yeah, a bloody man, though it's not his fault I'm a fucking twpsyn twp).

Mind you my surf was fucking perfect, the break did me good! Roll on new swell this weekend.

argh

Filled to the brim with surf…my God. Anyway, there's been waves every day and I've been on it every day, well apart from yesterday. Mostly been in the Bay cos the wind and swell have been raging…Haven't impressed myself, but that's partly the Bay closeouts and I'll stick to that forever! Tides too high when I finished yesterday, was on the beach at Fistral all day covering the Big Wave Goldrush which we're now sponsoring. Really good to watch. Great waves today, smaller but powerful and less wind, but I'm fucking flat flat out and haven't left my desk except to find my salad lunch had gone soggy. I've got a headache and can't wait to sneak off for some almost-high-tide action somewhere, prob just Bay again. Smaller tomorrow then more and more on the way next week, phew…I hope the tide's not to bloody high, typical…still, I've got all weekend and I'm putting surfing first! For a change…

day 2

How many consecutive days of swell will there be? Looking good so far!

Surf was pants last night, closing out 2-3ft Towan with the rest of the WHOLE WORLD in there. That RIchie saffa, he rips, best surfer in there by miles. Also loves to take every set wave…So so fast and precise. He never says hi but then neither do I I suppose.

There were a couple of girls in there who were good, one must be local as she knew everyone, but she wasn't very friendly… Laura dropped in on her by mistake, it was a crap wave anyway and she said sorry, girl just raised her eyebrows and paddled off…I love to see girls surfing good, but drop the attitude! Talking shit with her mates. Oh and try surfing your backhand instead of wasting perfectly good lefts……grrr. 

So anyway me and Laura did get 4-5 decent ish waves each, but then it got to be a zoo, you had to drop in to get a wave and I won't do that. Ah well it was good exercise…really looks rubbish today and not that big at all. Boo! But there's plenty of swell on the way.

gosh i'm on a rant surf surf surf hey haha well, when there's surf I couldn't give a toss about any man, so that's a big plus.

Am jealous of my colleagues who all spent the day filming/shooting at and around Levy, ie surfing and messing about in boats. :-( I spent the day writing about not very fascinating stuff…Ah well put in the time and i'll be rewarded!! They'll send me to Hawaii to stay in jack johnson's house with kelly as my personal love slave and surf tutor. Actually make that Macca.

Also saw Joel Gray out in the surf, he liked the article. Glad as I had to hack a bit.

Didn't actually get any good waves, too many people. NOT going there tonight no way. looks shit everywhere anyhow. God, after the last surf, such a shame!!!

Nice to surf with laura as she's really there to surf. we don't chat a lot, just get on with it, and she really wants to be there and doesn't need help not that I mind helping people but I worry about them!

Got REALLY pissed off with that girl wasting lefts. It's SO frustrating. I'd say she was a better surfer than me, but with the no backhand and the attitude and the taking too many waves…bad. Girls mellow the lineup and guys (and other girls) so love to see girls surfing well, but she spoilt it.

Did 6 pullups easy this morning (is that actually good? I don't know)…but defo need more yoga. HAVE to do one session before it starts on Tues. Oh can't wait.

where to go?

Surf is fucked. Not interested but wil go out anyway as Laura is keen and it'll get me fitter. After last night's little peaks, proper walls and smackable fun, today's blown out sectioning crumble does not inspire me. Hurray, huge swell, everyone's frothing - but you can't surf it. All right Richie Mullins, maybe big Bowgie lefts suits you, but not me…Only a few places are surfable, half the world has turned up at Levy but it's not on anyway…One choice for me and probably every other man and dog after 5pm. Really wanna go home!! If and when the next hurricaine swell appears, I'm off, and I think I'll take some unpaid as well.

splash

Right, I've been a bit lazy but want to keep up with the old session diary, so new (big) swell, here goes.

Oh, and I'm madly missing home as I know where'll be good right now!!!!

Laura was busy finishing her work - she so should have come. I went straight to semi-secret newks spot, not interested in the Fistral shitfight. Was quite busy at x, but as usual the south peak and the middle peak were full and few on the right hand side, cos it's not quite as good, but was still gooood! Saw Si, he'd had a shocker. He always seems pissed off at the moment, I think he should give up the smoke.

It was dark clouds and rain on and off, got a little cold but not too bad yet…Straight in and got a lovely right, was just head high on me, didn't think i'd get round the first section but though it was new swell it wasn't throwing out too hard nor too steep to take off on, so it was perfect, nice. Made the first section and good top turn, ahhh finally i don't just get up there and lose speed, now the weight transition feels ace, fully flying weightless for a second, then commit and lean into the face, loooking for the next bit to smack! one more turn then this bodyboarder almost in the way, paddling like mad and looking at me with his gob open, yeah mate i've seen you and i'm 100% not going to fall off this so you just keep paddling. he got over the shoulder and the wave was fading and i was feeling naughty and wanted to do something other than turn turn, so I got to the top and whacked it, haha, well, it probably looked like a weak slide from shore, but a bit of the old spray came off it and almost hit him heehee. Made that swoosh then patter-of-rain noise and i was pretty stoked with that one…could probably have milked that wave a bit more instead, but I want to do manoeuvres not just stay on there until it dies. I feel I'm reading the waves better though.

Got a nice left then as well, a few turns, and another one which seemed to be a left but then when it sectioned i turned adn there was more wall going right, but I was just that bit late and got left behind on that, was crumbly anyway.

Had another left where my back foot was off the bloody tailpad!!! Tried moving it but didn't get it in the right place, still made three turns but felt like I was surfing through butter or something, couldn't move properly, tried to crank a bottom turn and argh, what's going on here?! Told myself off as I was surfing it.

Got another nice right as well, fast. Paddled into it perfect, there was a good surfer inside of me paddling too but he let me have it and for once i just focussed didn't bother going eeeek he's gonna drop in, as clearly he wasn't that kind of surfer, you can just tell the people who are paddling around without giving a shit for anyone else in the water. Like the longboarder who didn't even try to move oout of my way as i went for a wave, forcing me to try taking off too far away from shoulder and missing it…lazy boy. Anyway ~I went almost all the way into the beach on that one! Just pumping down the line, not as wally as the first one so harder to read and just keeping the speed up to get all the way was the main thing.

Then tide was getting too far in, nice sunset but got dark fast. High tide there, not as much swell gets in and you can't fit the people either. Also gets lumpy and backs off grrrrr. I was so amped for more waves as well! Ended up just getting one in, a crap left but a nice drop on it.

fistral crowds

Left a bit early yesterday fuck it, i was in early and worked lunch. laura picked me up and we went in Fistral, fucking crowded with half of south africa in there, honestly why do they come here unless they wanna go pro? and they don't all.
Anyway got lots of waves, and a couple nice ones too, one right where i did three turns that weren't wishy wahsy…i'm less about getting long waves now, i get those well enought, now i'm into how many manoeuvres i can put in and how much power I can put behind them - i know i can do them, so it's how well now. More vertical. The waves don't provide much opportuniuty for even the best guys to do mad stuff at the moment, so i'm not worrying about that, just solid turns and smacking/floating where i can. Ha makes me sounds dead good…i'm not. Still feel v unfit after the flu (yeah all right and going out too much) but that'll come back quickly.