last surf this week

Went Fistral yesterday lunchtime. Was just 2ft and pretty weak really, but whenI got in it wasn't too crowded. First few waves i was being a spacker but then caught a few decent ones, not millions but did lose count. Got a bit cold. Foot off tail pad a couple times. So am writing a piece of tape to stick on it. Wasn't really focussing properly, got to stop thinking about other stuff in the sea. I'm fine if my mind's on it!!

Last wave was the best by far. Little blondy boy saw me going and i was right on the peak too but he paddled anyway and was going to get up as well the **** but it faded on him, i'd have had to yell at him. Took off damn close to him and had the best left HA so yes don't drop in on girls. did like 4 sets of top and bottom turns and tried to smack the last bit but it was tiny by then. Surfed all the way in. Got back about 3. Mike just asked how it was…no-one cares! good.

starts tomorrow!

Not sure what to write yet but I'm in

trawst

Hideous surf on sunday, missed the offshore morning and nearly drowned in the onshore afternoon. Yuk. Nice small clean one yesterday too and it always feels better when you're supposed to be at your desk. They don't mind - i'm lucky.

rainbow

Looked too small and boy was it nippy at 7.45 this morning, but I went in anyway, me, some guy on a tiddlywink and 2 other shorters. Water's still so warm (good job as a three year old too-big suit with no glue left and rips doesn't do much). Waves were 1-2ft clean peaks, no wind. Lots of those diving black bird things (i'm such a nature girl). A rainbow started up over Pentire then grew to hit the middle of the horizon, then slowly died to that side as the sun came up. Golden frontlit little waves then. Got loads and one was pretty well done if i say so myself. Happy, but am now cold and being vaguely upset by just about everyone. Why don't people make more effort with other people? (Am I just as bad?)

swallow

blogger swallowed a couple of posts so I didn't bother…basically have been surfing loads so i'm very happy and have my stoke for surfing and life in general back. Friday lunchtime was lovely little peelers in the Bay, evening at Whoopsies, had my best wave ever…long, fast and perfectly surfed! ;-) Did a proper cutback and landed a re-entry. Sat took Laura to Porthtowan and she rediscovered her stoke too. We both had a million waves, I love it there. Sunday I surfed so badly, it was tiny and I was so hungover I thought I'd be sick in the water. Since then, flat and minging, but there should be more at the weekend, pray the wind doesn't force us all into the Bay.

bliss

ooooooooooooooooooooo

just had the BEST surf ;-) - paddle out, catch wave straight away, out, wave, out wave out wave for an hour and half, lovely 2ft clean not crowded coulda been bigger but like fukin summer out there, sooo nice! fistral later for sure.

oh blogger swallowed last post - good surf, loads waves, fat longboarders ;-) and last night was REALLY good as well.

Totally rediscovered stoke. Surfing more important than just about everything else…have been trying to fit it in when really I should be trying to fit everything else in!!

ooooooooooooooooooooo

just had the BEST surf ;-) - paddle out, catch wave straight away, out, wave, out wave out wave for an hour and half, lovely 2ft clean not crowded coulda been bigger but like fukin summer out there, sooo nice! fistral later for sure.

oh blogger swallowed last post - good surf, loads waves, fat longboarders ;-) and last night was REALLY good as well.

Totally rediscovered stoke. Surfing more important than just about everything else…have been trying to fit it in when really I should be trying to fit everything else in!!

hir

Van just cost me £122 so there goes the trip home, just can't afford the repairs, diesel up there, lost pay etc.

Mae hiraeth arna i. I haven't been home for so long.

Should be plenty of surf here, though, so I'll survive.

bach

hour in fistral, was nice but disappointingly small…I thought it was supposed to be 3ft today, was more like 1-2ft. Perfect little peelers though, caught lots and lots even with the curse of the logs -- two of them paddling wherever I did. Nice offshore sunny, water still warm enough for the broken suit. Not worth missing yoga for later. Fingers crossed for the weekend.

useless

Had the worst surf in the world last night. Wedge was on but by time I got out it was off again, but there was hardly anyone out and fun 3ft peaks pushing through. Got one wave and it was poor. Couldn't seem to catch anything, went for loads that turned out to be closeouts so had to pull back. Hell of a paddleout and got washed back in twice. Last week I could surf - this week I can't. WTF?! Bloody on it at lunchtime, not having that.

world poverty day

Wear the white band on 17 October 2006. You’ll be joining thousands of people taking a stand against poverty. Let’s show world leaders that they must deliver on the promises they’ve made on trade, debt, and aid. Being In is about standing up for the belief that poverty is an injustice that can be overcome. More than eight million wore the band last year! They'll send you a free band and more info if you sign up.

bloviate

bloviate \BLOH-vee-ayt\, intransitive verb:
To speak or write at length in a pompous or boastful manner.

What a lovely word.

So a pirate walks into a bar with a big ship's wheel on his belt buckle. The bartender says "Hey, you've got a big ship's wheel on your belt buckle." The pirate says "Arrrr, I know. It's driving me nuts."

'Joke' courtesy of back-to-student-land brother.

Mag's finished and there's no swell. I hardly know what to do with myself.