patience

Er anyway where was i> Oh yes, i feel much better. Why? Cos I went surfing, silly. Tolcarne again cos it was bang on high. Nice and clean out there, 3ft some bigger sets as the tide began to turn. Not really wedging but there were some fun sections oooohhhhpppps is it jacking up to twice the size eek okay. Wanted three good waves, got three good waves (well, okay, nothing amazing). The best one I got one I had my damn foot off the tailpad again, but still managed to rip it up ;-) hehe. Second one was the best. Got one okay right and one niceish left. Second one though, woo…steeeeeep drop, nearly bottled it but no, not with Chris Thomson out there ;-) Stamped on the front foot whoosh dropped down and in, got so much speed, had taken off right at the top of the peak, wedging one. It sectioned in front of me boo, would have smacked it just for the hell of it but that was when I realised my back foot was off, so I just steered as if cutting back and it sort of reformed, was quite nice. Just nice to know I can surf. Sort of. Feel like I'm really getting to know how the bay works now, and how to get a half-decent session out of it - it's not as bad as a lot of people say. There's peelers, if you know when to be where. Patience.

gwastraffffffffff

well that was a fucking waste of time. Honestly, sometimes I really wonder if I've ever been on a surfboard in my life. 3ft and pretty clean and fairly peaky. Got one wave, surfed it like a window licker and took some beatings and wipeouts which must have looked hilarious to everyone else. I don't have a clue why - just one of those shocker sessions I suppose :-(

enfys

It was good and bad, ze old surf. Bay looked like it was juuuuust holding the slightly decreased swell, with some bigger peelers (well, a few) coming through, clean and quite powerful. Managed to paddle out with only 2 duckdives so that was good. Didn't get any flushes today so that was good too, maybe it's just moulding to me. Maybe weeing in it helps…Had to.
Got a couple at the start of the sesh, nothing great though. Then there were just toooo many people. Lots of waves I would have been dropping in on someone in, and a few that I could have yelled for I suppose.

Rainbows appeareed with the showers, enfys all over the skies, beautiful. There were about 4 other chicks out as well. One rated herself clearly but I didn't see her on anything great. Just too many people altogether.

About three or four big sets rolledthrough - it was about 3ft but then these sets were easy 4ft, and the bigger ones of course didn't peel anyway.

Mad guy on a fish taking off on closeouts. Decided to take me under his wing or maybe he talks to every random who gets in his way. Told me I should have called grommet-snake-boy off one wave. Suppose I should have gone for it. Pointless when I know guys will just carry on anyway so my wave will be ruined.

Then I was paddling out, big set, a right comes towards me with a longboarder poised in the lip. Okay I think, out of this poor guy's way, paddle this way. He takes off and goes left, and we got tangled up cos he wiped out sraight away. This time I don't think it was me going the wrong way. Wasn't me why he fell off in any case…ah well. Fishman said 'you okay?' I'm like yeah…jeez, just cos I'm a girl…not seen me take my floggings with the rest and pop up and not have been dragged as far back as most people? Ah well he was only trying to be nice.

So I didn't wanna get out really but at 2.45 thought I better had!! Oops deadline tomorrow…etc. So I got one last wave and actually made it a decent one, despite having to say 'fuck it' that there were about 4 people paddling out in my takeoff zone. Was only a little one but rode it all the way in.

Best thing - wasn't even a bit cold. Better thing - it's nearly the end of the day! Wish I could go for another surf but it's getting dark now.

Thank God for surf.

stoked man

Oh and I had a lovely surf yesterday, got loads of waves but it was the Bay so they mostly closed out after a turn or two! Got nice on the push before the word got around. Now have a new Xcel wetty to try out so I'm super stoked. Going in at lunchtime. Then going dry-ski-slope-snowboarding this evening, wristguards and kneepads at the ready. Gonna be a damn good weekend.

forecast

I'm going to get my bottom spanked.

tri

Surf surf surf…been loads!!

Nice Saturday session if a bit crowded and managed to collide with someone, but had a few. Sunday was windier but at least Whoopsies doesn't get crowded. Llewellyn was out there too. Didn't catch much, shifty conditions, just one big drop on a left that made me smile. Yesterday small but clean in the Bay, chatting to a nice American guy for a bit. Caught a few but haven't had a really good wave for ages! Love my new split-toe boots but not liking the baggy round the bum 5/3 that likes to come undone as I duckdive, ouch. Xcel here we come. Stormy today, will check the Harbour but I doubt I'll get in.

rhewi

Perfect (as it gets in the Bay ie actually peeling mostly) three feet. Offshore was so strong I got blown back off a few - extra paddle strokes needed. Very crowded, presume they were all students. Bodyboarders who insisted on sitting way inside just asking to be run over and, as usual, half of South Africa.
First wave got dropped in on by a girl who just didn't see me taking off deep, and a guy her mate who I'm sure did see me…shame as it was a nice right. Second wave was a left which I wobbled on takeoff on as it was soooo windy, recovered and managed to shoot down the line and turn under the lip. Last one got dropped in on then he fell off anyway. Nice.
Still stoked as to be out there. Froze to absolute death but that's my own fault - 3/2 that doesn't fit, strong winds, pelting rain and end of November. So the Psycho goes on tomorrow, and my Xmas list consists of one thing - money so I can get an Xcel Infiniti Hooded 5/4/3.
So I had to get out after just over an hour, the crowding was silly anyway, Weds afternoon must still be student sports half day. Should have been a rubbish session all told but am atually quite stoked.

Keen to get to yoga and get the kinks out and warm up. Hope it's not crowded.

Done no writing today or yesterday…

writing progress

And there's still surf today. Deadline? Whatever.

trash vortex

The trash vortex - plastic floating about, the size of Texas…

hehe

Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night, set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Rod Sumpter

i'm so bored. what can i talk about?

Well, went to watch the Rod Sumpter Come Surf With Me thing, he's Final Cutted his main 4 films into one and we saw 40 minutes of it. It's Endless Summer but less slick. I was fascinated by the footage of Crantock and Fistral and the mad boards they tried to pull moves on in Hawaii. How is a singlefin spoon-shaped thing going to stick in a Pipe wall?! I loved the Bells footage. The French footage was amazing purely for the lack of crowds. Some of it was dodgy quality to say the least but it is nearly 40 years old, some of it. Anyway we got to talk to him and I think cos I was interested it made it easy and I asked some not totally stupid questions. Though I was nervous and dropped my pen and stammered…but he's nice and likes to talk for sure! I hope he gets the money to bring his archived footage to life. And I hope he gets some help with Final Cut Pro. Also met John from A1 Surf who's another one who's seen the rise of it all. I'd love to do memoirs of both of them.

Come Surf With Me is being shown at Sailors (where the surfers used to hang out!) on Dec 6.