I've hit the lip hard twice this weekend, so am pleased.
Fri evening was a clean 2ft at Fistme…far to many logs taking all the waves, only got a couple and was annoyed by someone as well…yes I was a mess on my birthday, funnily enough, no need to tell me I looked like crap. Anyway, I had a good few good waves, glad to see the swell return yippee.
Sat went on a mission searching for a good bank. Ended up at Penhale which was just all over the place, weird and hard to catch a wave. Seemed even the really good surfers weren't getting much either so we didn't feel too shit (me and Laura) and I had a couple which were all right. Just not what we expected - I don't mind size, but shifty shifty backing off peaks is a pain, esp as my paddling fitness still isn't quite there.
Afternoon session at Fistral, quite high tide, much nicer. Paddleout hell then washed back in by big set, currents quite mad. We both ended up on the sand again but bloody determined paddled back out. Fine once there, was perfect size and coming through. Didn't catch anything worth remarking on though, was a paddle-fest. Just took off on things for the hell of it anyway.
So wasn't too happy with that, a lot of work for fuck all! BUT Sunday made up for it. One (or seven) snakey b's too many in the Red/Bels/Koola but woke up feeling okay and dragged Laura off her Kiwi down to Whoopsadasies. Misty but looked good, three out. Tried to paddle out, got pulled north scarily fast. Got angry, tried again, out with one duckdive. Bigger surf=look for a fucking channel kathryn.
So then I had the best wave in ages, nice right, bottom turn, top, bottom, top, cutback (nothing fancy but back to the power) and then it was sectioning so I just whacked it. Thank God for that, I can still surf. Caught inside and took a flogging again just wave after wave sigh why did I drink I was bored out anyway…Back out and then had a spaz attack for half an hour, caught about 6 waves and did retarded takeoffs every time. Duh. Took a stupid wave to get some cold water to shock me out of it! Worked, stood up on a straighthander. Then had a couple nice lefts, a few others wavecount of at least 6 or 7 so a great session, and Laura had tons of waves at the end when it pushed higher past midtide and got smaller but peaky as. Really nice day in the end.
Session this morning, not even tired so fitness coming back, bloody pneumonia really kicked my ass though. Hour or so as Fist again, 2ft clean empty waves, got loads and smacked one naughty lip which wanted to hit me, got there first though, getting the board waaay more vertical though I just flew off the back didn't stick it, all good. I am happy that I'm doing more manoeuvres now, and I feel a lot more in control. Probably look like a drunken fat stork but hey.
Deadlines driving me up the wall, wish I could have something more useful to do but hey if they don't want to use my brain I'll put it to use elsewhere…like writing tons of utter drivel on every web page that'll have me. hahaha. Amped up then I get here and am bored by spellchecking and press realease cutting. How good were my captions? Well let me do the contents then.
God surfing makes me hungry. Wish the swell would stay but I think it won't past tonight. Hope to get in one more time before it dies.
