ow

went for a surf this morning, second wave bottom fell out of it *(about 3ft fistral, a lefthander) and when i came up the board hit me in the face and has broken my nose :-( I look like a freak, have to stay 'rest' all day and can't even take drugs (paracetamol hardly counts). Can't surf for 7 days til swelling goes down then they'll reset it (she said if it's not just swelling anyway but it's not, i can see and feel where it's fractured) so i'll look freaky/be out of the water/parties another 7 days. It's bending to the left.

Joy!

A nose job, just what I always wanted, but not quite this way!

no black eyes so far but it's only been a few hours, cracking headache though and my teeth hurt.

I can't surf i'm so upset i'm so unfit after pneumonia/neck injury/shit waves I was so so stoked this morning. Rob Small this big wave Canary Islands guy friends with work lot was out there, paddled up like you okay? blood everywhere yeah not bad mate, how does it look…he said it might be time to go have a cup of tea.

beeeeer

I found a bottle-opener ring on the beach the other day, while watching the surf and wishing I could get in it. Will do this weekend. Meanwhile, this vid is in honour of all the beer that will be drunk in Newquay on this Run To The Sun Bank Hol weekend. I am running to Woolacombe area to hide from it (obv I love the idea, just not the chavs that come with it).

Soundtrack to my Friday at work (and it's only 11.30am): "Oi oi oi!" [sirens] "Fuck off!" [screams from fairground ride opposite my office] [dixie horn] "oi oi!" [dwf dwf dwf car stereo] and so on…

hunt the qad

Didn't manage to get hold of the quad - yet - but took a fish. Couldn't find anywhere under 6ft in the area, not keen on that with my neck. Returned the fish and ended up going for a surf with laura, nick, dave and mark at Towan. Got one good wave and royally hurt myself again as it was 3ftish, hell of a paddle and pretty heavy. Nice one. No more surfing this week and I don't think I should go to yoga either - if only because my poor teacher will feel awful about it. I'm not getting very far with my surfing goals and my fitness is pants.

doga

Doga
Aww…and also, Americans are completely hatstand.

Super excited, have contacted the coach I want to coach and video me, please please don't be too expensive (but I know he's good). Trying out a quad for our wonderful summer waves, 9/10 shapers agree they kick ass. Credit card? Yep. Then Edenism for some hedonism, Rairbirds and Tom Middleton (alt Rootjoose and Aphex Twin).

DSCF0245.JPG

DSCF0245.JPG
Originally uploaded by surfergi1rl.

This is what I missed on Sunday cos my neck was fucked!! Not too happy. Barrels, and I couldn't go near 'em.

neck

It's stormy as but I know where it'll be working (in wales and cornwall) grrr but I have fucked my neck so no surf for me! I might get in the van if I can drive a bit better tomorrow and have a wander with an OS map and my camera. See how we go on the valium. My last surf was a shocker on Saturday…

green energy

http://www.surfhog.com/

too fucking right

fly

Oh had the best surf last night! haha. Small clean Fist high tide, packed out with people so we went the far far south end breaking on rocks etc lefts and rights on the peak, one good left about 3 good rights, two very very fast ones. First one I did a good cutback on, not as good as the morning tho. Then these two fast rights just weaving and turning and racing then flying kickouts. Caught tons and it felt great. Wish I could have scored the 4ft lunchtime session but felt my lateness in the morning was bad enough all things considered recently.

Amazing sunset to finish it off. When's the next swell though? Gone this morning :-( ah well I'll just have to go Perran tonight and watch sunset while sipping beer. Mmm.

cutty

Got up at 7 and surfchecked. One girl running down, no one in. Got in at 8 and she was coming out stoked and amazed it was still empty. Had it like that for 30 mins then a few, the guy I always see short v good surfer.

Had the BEST left for ages, did a PROPER cutback!!!! All the fucking way roundhouse thank you very much. It wasn't vertical and fast at all haha but I'll get there. Was backhand on a lovely wave I got about 4 turns in. Only 2ft but clean as a whistle and lovely at North, bank is decent now. Offshore this morning too. Had a few others but most of them closed out really. An hour isn't long enough!

Boys from the office all gone. Bet it's crowded as now. Haha.