The first decent wave since I did my neck in then broke my nose was surfed last night at Towan, hereafter to be known as 'human soup right'. Hurrah.
Was so so tired after deadline hell, but it was clean and 3ftish. By the time I got in it was 2ft if that and after-work full, including several people I've never seen in my life surfing very aggressively (don't punt your board at the local groms, blondey) and two girls. Only two! One is probably pro but I'm not sure who she is and I only saw her get one wave, and the other had the attitude but a full-on poo stance - shame.
Anyway I caught my three and left it at that. I can protect my nose from my own board, but not that of kooks and people who don't give a shit. First one was the best, long right where I went top to bottom a couple times and cutback once. Someone was hooting but prob not at me…haha. Nice to be in the water but the town, the crowds…I want to go searching. And time to get some coaching (and bloody hell do some training).
Hope for more tonight.
Labels: surf