no surf

Nuts that Occy's retiring! But a good excuse for a fun micro-site.

Been no surf up here in West Wales so far...just keep hoping!

let me out

Can't wait to get out of the office and go home! Hoping there will be some small swell around in West Wales but not really couting on it...nothing here now and it's absolutely icy. I did have a Saturday surf and caught three okay ones, but now the rest is definitely doing me good.

Been thinking a lot about plastic, and woke up with an idea. Then I saw this and sighed. Unfortunately it's obvious to anyone who's been on a beach in the last few years that this is a serious problem. I might have to do something about it!

It's just one of a few things taking up my thoughts though, so we shall see. At the moment I'm not feeling very inspired because endless data entry numbs my brain :-(

break

Two surfs and not a wave caught, and perfect conditions. No idea what's going on but I'll try again tomorrow then have a rest. Clearly there are people a lot worse off than me etc. etc. but still, I'm not very happy.

never enough

Ahhhhhhhhhh I know I'm lucky to get to surf at lunchtime but AN HOUR IS NOT ENOUGH! Not when it's blue sky, light winds, so many places to choose from, so few surfers in the crispy cold water, clean lines at all the spots, two foot to double overhead, shall I go eek or play it safe, why is there no-one in at Whoopsadowndasies, my favourite, why do I have to end up in the Bay again? Why is my first wave always the best - ah racing the wall and two clean lazyily drawn easy easy turns, like I actually know what I'm doing out here. A few straighthanders, I give those little dragons a talking to. Hot blonde boy and hot Irish boy start chatting in the lulls, always nice to have something to, er, spectate on…

Then a little visit from that nice Mole, looking like he's been hidden underground for a while with that facial growth! Telling us the Cribber may be 10ft tomorrow and there might be some tow action to watch, feast your eyes.

The whole coast is stoked, racing time and tides to get some. Be happy with what you can get, be it all day, just lunchtime, or waiting for the weekend.

I am happy now. But the office seems a strange, wrong place to be. There are waves out there!

Never enough, until next time.

yin yang

icanhascheezburger

i love yin yang (taijitu)

what a difference!

Had a surf at Fistral. It was about 2-3ft on the push. Wore the 3/2 but with hood, but didn't need hood as it was smaller than I thought. And weak! Argh. I caught more on Saturday in the howling winds (had loads at the Bay)! The waves were so backing off, doubling up and weak I hardly caught a thing :-( and stuffed up the only decent one I did get on. One step forward…

But it was blinding sunlight, still not cold, few people out (including someone who bust a big air, really impressive) and clean waves. Try again tomorrow! It was really beautiful out there but I am feeling somehow a little out of step with the ocean. I think it's how damn dark it is — I get up in the dark and go home in the dark. Ah well, the nights draw out from 21st.

Waves for the rest of the week so I've plenty of time to make up for my awfulness!

50 year storm

It's about 4ft at Towan, as shown (proper camera is broken. Again). I watched for half an hour, saw one bottom turn and one wave that didn't close out. I can't go on a mission today so I'll only get wet from the rain. But I did have a good surf at 2ft Great Western, it actually peeled and I got loads of waves.

Maybe tomorrow? We shall see. It's awful weather to everyone but ducks, and surfers. Good luck to my tribe.