Dominican Republic Day 1

Mostly going to post on the SurfGirl blog as I am actually supposed to be here for work ;-) but will also update here because I'm just too excited to shut up!

It is all the cliches of paradise here, the surf's not ace yet but it will be. Had two 2-3ft surfs in boardies today, tired as now. Girls are all cool, place is amazing, it's warm...I hadn't realised how much I've been struggling in the winter waves of Cornwall! Had two rubbish small Bay surfs at the weekend, bored, crowded, freezing, then come here and my first wave is better than anything I've had in ages. Had three or four that I was so pleased with actually.

Also had a local bust an air right in front of me and his board landed on my nose. Eek! Hurt, saw stars, but it's not broken again at least. He was very apologetic, I think he just meant to make the point I was in his way. I couldn't really help it, but I know you gotta really stay out of the localss way! Thing is, there was no-one out either time we paddled out, I think the boys were just super curious to see 7 surfer girls and had to come take a look.

They girls are all better than me, obvs, which is going to make me work hard! I want to catch a barrel, and I will, I'm determined.

Hmm, time for a beer.

still windy...

Searching for surf saturday. Bay looked ho hum. Got a lift with Laura and Josh up to Harlyn, which was moslty closing out and so so rammed with students. So we went looking. Checked out a reef, a little sheltered bay, the Doom Bar and had a nice curried pasty in Padstow, which is so gorgeous.

Ended up going home again as tide got too high for Harlyn on the second check. Saw a surfer girl I vaguely know in the carpark, she said hi to Josh, blatantly I'm with him (well, not like that obvs), I said hi and she completely ignored me. Stood there for a little, can never quite believe what a bitch she is, then carried on back to car. Honestly. Why be so rude?

So went for a nap then hopped in at Great Western. Hell of a paddle out. More than one boy looked surprised when I made it out. Fucking determined. Think I did well considering being ill all week but it was hard work, 3ft plus and actually quite powerful. Ie I got my arse kicked a few times! One 4ft barrel hit me square, not fun, but it's never as bad as france so…and yes, I did say barrel, and in the bay! Saw one guy get in, but not out of one. I had one nice left and another not great one. Not an ace session by any means, but it was only about an hour.

I read something on Surferbrat about how much patience surfing in winter takes. Too right. More searching, more waiting, more battling.

surfing is dangerous!

Gosh, better cut down on the elevator-ing as well.



From the superlative XKCD.com, via P

global warming - risk management

The risks of doing nothing far outweigh the risks of action.

humpback whales

Treehugger has an article saying Japan aren't going to hunt humpback whales this year. A good start!

I do adore Treehugger. I'd read it all day if I could. A gadget to make weaveable ribbon out of plastic bottles? Amazing.

fixed

Whatever the hell was wrong with my surfing seems to have fixed itself! The last three surfs have been great. One at dawn on my own at North Fistral on 22nd Dec, one at Watergate a week or so ago, and yesterday at Tolcarne where I found the longest left I've had in ages as well as a really good right. Happy!

Camera seems to have fixed itself (it got over its hangover...) so I will start taking it down the beach again.

Japan are up to their shit again.

My trip to the Dominican Republic is coming up really soon. My passport isn't back, I haven't had my jabs, I have no reef boots - I'm totally disorganised. I guess it's because I can't quite belive I'm really going somewhere so amazing!

Book review: Swallowing Grandma, Katie Long

Read this in two evenings! Coming of age novel about a bookloving, misfit girl called Kat! So I loved it... Doesn't try to be clever or twisty, just seems so real all the way through. And funny. Best book I've read in ages. 9/10