It's not rocket science

The MOD have had enough of surfers at a certain break not so far from Bournemouth ignoring them and are reputed to be closing all access to the break. The locals have had enough of people blocking access and speeding through the village as well.

It's not exactly a secret spot, thanks to the likes of Wannasurf and many of the guidebooks, but the real problem is ignorance. The local crew have been quietly enjoying (and respecting) the place for years. Everyone should do the same, whether they're going to the middle of nowhere through a firing range or rocking up at Fistral.

When faced with a classic yet fickle spot doing its thing, where's the sense of awe and respect gone?


Magic Seaweed discussion (the usual ranting)

The Bay comes good

Nice one. At last!

Joe was well up for it as well, we all (Al too) went to check Whoopsadasies. No-one out, quite clean but a little out of control. So hard to tell from the top of the cliff! We suited up. As I was pulling my hood on the mother of all sets rolled in; the boys didn't see it and paddled straight out. I was a bit behind them. They stopped and started to take little inside ones (head high). I was like, boys, you have not paddled all the way out. As I got to the bottom of the steps a proper set came in and they were inside. I just didn't fancy the paddleout and instead climbed back up those bloody steps!

Went to Great Western instead. Paddled straight out onto a nice peak with a group of northerner 18-year-olds on it, all hooting at closeouts and enjoying the warmer water no doubt. I could tell they're not locals 'cos one smiled and said hello to me! (Sad but true.)

Got quite a few straighanders, two nice lefts where I went along for a little bit with this super steep wall next to my back, just waiting for it to close out but not minding really. Almost pulled into the second one that did that, but hesitated just a touch too long to do it. Next time.

What makes me happy is I managed to get one nice right and work it properly with a few turns. It wasn't amazing but I took off properly, stayed one, bottom and top turned and kept with the power pocket. Was really nice. I also got a pretty long left where I had to spend most of the time going around people! But was still happy with what I did with it.

It was only like two foot out there, but there were some peeling ones, especially earlier on. The later it got the more it closed out as low tide approached. We all took a few really good razor-sharp lip closeouts to the legs and head…several of the boys seemed more excited by being faced with a three foot cylinder about to detonate a foot in front of them than the actual rideable waves. I suppose that's a good way to look at it. There was certainly nothing to be worried about, you only get a quick tumble. (Story of…etc.)

So anyway, I got one great wave and I feel like my trip away (the hassle continues) wasn't wasted, that I did get somewhere. I'm definitely fitter, and must carry on with surfing, swimming, yoga, biking, walking…I do loads actually!

I had the song 'I'm in over my head' playing over and over in the water - not good! I had to forcibly change it to 'I wanna be a rock star'! Talk about talking myself out of surfing! I think I would have been in over my head, Joe said it was quite big and he's been dripping water ever since coming back. I just didn't fancy the struggle, I needed waves to show me that I can bloody surf!

Saturday swell pulse

Woke early and ready to get on it for the predicted pulse of swell. Still offshore and calm. Drove to Porthtowan and was there by 7.30ish. Freezing. Swift change into horrible heavy rubbery suit. I can't move in that bloody thing! Steve turned up smoking a fag.

We paddled out and I proceeded to be an arse. Two waves he called me into, the second was just a closeout anyway but the first was sweet! But I thought it was closing out on me so puled back. It was about 3ft out there, clean and peeling. A crowd of about ten all in all, it was okay at first just a few, then too many for the one peak. One other girl which was good to see. Steve had some nice ones but his twinny skipped out on at least one I saw. Oh, the waves were so nice! But all I managed to catch was three straighthanders before I had to admit that I couldn't feel my feet, my neck was killing me and I was getting nowhere fast. It was mostly the wetsuit and partly the crowd, I hate both. I know I can surf better than that, I have been doing so for the last two weeks, consistently. I have to get used to the cold again, and I have to not fuck about. Honestly. It was a lovely day, bit hazy but only a gentle offshore and the sun peeked out and the water was glassy. The boogers were loving it, pulling into closeout shorebreaks as I got out. It dropped really, really fast, but that one bank in front of the cliffs at the north end was good.

So I hopped out and changed, had a hot chocolate with mint, sat on the wall and threw sticks for Furtle. Love my van.

cut the crap

I went into NatWest to ask them to stop sending me paper statements. They said they have to send one per year by law, fine. I'm still getting statements, and also now getting the declaration of interest in a separate envelope! I bank online, hardly use that account anyway, and am trying to save paper and time! I went in again today and apparently they might have to carry on sending the interest statements by law. Why? Smile don't.

Their tagline is 'making life easier'. I think not. Which is why I switched to Smile.

sunshine

Back to reality! It's warm for February, which at least means I'm not shivering away and wishing myself back in the Caribbean. Small 2-3ft clean, sunny, offshore waves at Fistral today and I got a few in at lunchtime, a nice welcome home. The cold doesn't bother me so much as the wetsuit, which feels heavy and stinky after boardies. I think a 4/3 next time I buy a suit! Lovely peeling waves today…hope there's more of that to come.

Pictured is the cutest puppydog we wanted to take home from Playa Grande after one of his pack chewed on his little head. Covered in fleas and really skinny, but a lovely nature. I hope he's okay.

Proof I can surf!

Okay, it's nothing radical, but here's me at Encuentro (I think) in the Dominican Republic, proof at last that I'm not totally shit.

Dominican Republic - tally

2 x egg bruises (fins)
1 x fin cut
3 x bad wax rubs
10 x urchin spines
1 x aching neck
2 x burnt cheeks
1 x picture of me actually surfing (1 x wipeout as well)
20 x ish waves today

1 x happy surfer girl

skip skip skip (limp)