Gay Bay

Had one session last week at 2-3ft Fistral, really peaky and quite clean but shifting all over the place. Two good rights, tore them apart (haha). Then today (two foot closeout Gay Bay) I couldn't catch anything and couldn't be bothered, especially with evils off some weirdo for (I presume) being 'in the way' of another guy when I wasn't.

It's supposed to go nice tomorrow i.e. offshore, clean, three feet and sunny, so I guess I'll try again then. People are abandoning the hoods and gloves, and some even the boots. I was still cold though. I dream of Australia, or Costa Rica (reading Captain Zero again).

Like a lion

Here's the bay this morning…not much going on surf wise (a few out) but I think I will go for a paddle anyway, just for the exercise. Those rowers made me feel lazy!

It's been absolutely dire this past week. Last Thursday's lovely morning surf, where I stayed in far too long and had the best left in a long time (several good strong turns and cutting back) is but a lovely memory. April really has come in like a lion, so much wind and rain, but there's not much swell on the horizon. I need some waves!