It's more like autumn than summer at the moment, with showers and coolness - plus waves!
Last week's session was a good one - I only caught one wave, but that place has a habit of always teaching me something new. I wasn't confident still, because of time out of the water and lack of punchy swell. But I got one good one (despite a snaking-ish from a sponger) and didn't back off waves so…that's all right. Lovely swell, few good surfers but room enough, and loved being in the water.
Nothing since, until yesterday when a clean 3ft session was had at Tolcarne after work. Due to wanting to actually catch some waves this time I passed on the clean a-frames at last session's spot. And catch some I did. Tolcarne just closes out but I had a couple of decent lefts where I was cutting back and doing more drawn-out turns, which is the aim of the game at the moment. I also took off on two stupidly steep closeouts and made them, and I rode my last wave all the way in, which always feels good.
Not looking great today, but I'll probably go out later just to keep the fitness going…
Pictures to come when I find the damn camera lead…
Labels: surf
