shh

My weekend was perfect…I'd post a photo of where I camped up but it's a secret spot. Four surfs over two days, a touch of sunburn, tired and happy… Magic and surreal. Deadline tomorrow and if I start on the details I'll be here forever!

Surf's quite good today as well, a run then a surf and I'm tired again. I seem to be getting more good waves…hope I'm not jinxing myself saying that…

Just want more of all of it.

epic schmepic

I wish people would stop informing me how epic it's going to be. Epic swells down here mean me, and most others who are a) not amazing surfers b) are skint and c) have only a tiny window of time to surf in so can't search for somewhere that's not a) massively maxed out b) scary as fuck c) not jammed because it's sheltered… will not have as much fun as you would think.