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Jesus, there's no surf in Wales…

Well, all right, there's been a bit. I drove six hours with a van loaded to the roof with my whole life, got to the front and found clean small peaks peeling by the Bica, with just an old friend and one other surfer checking it. A really nice welcome back.

Since then I've been out twice in pretty tiny dire conditions. The S4 is at the superlative Drop In The Ocean, having been repaired (still suffering from Leven last year!). There should be a dribble on Friday…

In the meantime, I've joined the rowing club in order to get my oceanic fix. It seems, in the tradition of water-based clubs/sports/anything involving 2 or more people in Wales, to be a veneer for a drinking club. Excellent.

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Couple of foot in the Bay, a few sneaking through that didn't close out, a reasonable lunchtime session. Better than last night, where the waves were better but I caught nothing, lost an earplug and snapped my leash...

good day so far

Sweet little couple of offshore feet at Fistral, 'Golf Terrace Peak' doing its thing... Made peace with the Resin8 (but it'll always be second best - just not lively enough) and had plenty of good waves. Feet cold though.

Then 'helped' with the board shoot, aka touching up about 10 lovely retro shapes from Down The Line. Would not be able to choose which to try first - it's between these two:


























and there was a wicked purple one too…and the Byron Board…oh…