upping the game

Surf picked up yesterday, from nothing to 3-4ft in the evening. Fistral was busy (always two guys for every wave) and it was a disorganised, lumpy, cow-shit smelling, cold new swell. A sudden roar quickly followed by wind which has ruined it today. I didn't get far but there were quite a lot of frustrated faces around.

I wish Mitch would hurry up fixing the levy-kisses in my quad. I just don't like the Resin8 toothpick, it's corky, and when I got a good right it just felt so slow in comparison (plus my feet were frozen, = painful cutback). It's too small for me, I like my boards 6ft plus and loose. Like men...!

Anyway I don't really mind, still happy I had a few more at Levy the weekend before last...one late takeoff steep right fast as. I felt like Layne haha. And only five of us in after the morning crowd had faded away — a touch of onshore sent them all to the north coast. Kelv lost his board to the rocks and I dinged myself and the S4, fook tis shallow, but makes me smile. And had a few at Hendra which blasted sand into my suit, ears, eyes... Have had some good times round that end of the world recently.


I'll take the blue house, thanks.


Explorin

fistraly goodness, part 2

I'm putting my best shots on the CARVE blog instead of here at the moment, trying to build up traffic with a daily surf shot. But it's actually nice for the first time in what seems like ages, so I've taken a few today. Hope to get in at lunchtime…maybe…a few things to sort out first, i.e. way too much work to do!

Porth Joke

A little video from the weekend — trying to get the dog to swim in freezing water!

I walked over West Pentire to Porth Joke and rambled on about it here.

long long lunch breaks

Saw one guy at Fistral this evening who eptomised good surfing for me - everything done with casual intent. No wasted movements, perfect timing, grace and reading the wave and going with it, not trying to force anything. That's really good surfing. Nothing flashy, though that's great to watch as well. Just flow, and confidence. I was too far away, but I bet he was hot. ;-)

Had myself a 2-1/2 hour lunchbreak. Should have pushed myself into more size, but bay was nice, clean, sunny, peaky even and I had lots of 2ft rides, so leave the challenge for another day, I'm happy. I'm fit enough to have a go sometime this weekend. Whoopsadasies tomorrow…

south

Heading south for the bank hol weekend, can't wait! Just me, van, dog, boards and books. There should be a few waves and even some sun. I hope to spot Bilbo the lifeguarding dog as well!

A new fave!

corgi

Stephen King has a Corgi called Frodo. I am in good writerly company:

'You have to have a place, but it can be anywhere, really. You have to have some time, but it can be anytime. Early this summer, while my wife and son were doing a joint reading at the public library in Portland, Maine, I got stuck with dog-duty. Our dog is Frodo, a plump and cheerful Welsh Corgi. He makes no trouble. I took him to Deering Oaks Park, found a bench in the shade and wrote four good pages on my new novel in the notebook I carry around. Frodo kept an eye on the ducks. Those four pages weren't perfect -- far from it -- but they were words on paper, and they marched.

People walked past, and no one gasped, "Oh, look! That man is caught in the cosmic godhead fire of the writing life!"'

more

doga

Doga
Aww…and also, Americans are completely hatstand.

Super excited, have contacted the coach I want to coach and video me, please please don't be too expensive (but I know he's good). Trying out a quad for our wonderful summer waves, 9/10 shapers agree they kick ass. Credit card? Yep. Then Edenism for some hedonism, Rairbirds and Tom Middleton (alt Rootjoose and Aphex Twin).

darth doggie

Darth Doggie

You MUST watch this! It's the Furtle, but it's not. I'm sooo doing this with her when I can borrow a cam!