seal mama

Wow, seems like it's been flat for ages, but really it's not that long at all. Had a perfect surf at Fistral last weekend despite a hangover. It was quite small, but sunny and peaky and I had loads of waves. A small seal (Baby? Female?) appeared out of the back of one wave and took a look at me, then dived and swam under my board. That's happened a few times now but never gets old! No-one else even noticed it. Yes I did pick my feet up, just in case.

Sunday was a beach day, cliff jumping and paddling about (finally in the 3/2), then sitting in the sun drinking far, far too much…

Having trouble concentrating today as a report just came in that Levy is working on this south swell. I have no chance of getting there but I won't be able to sit still all day now.

a few reasons i is quite happy today

lovely perfect surf
sunshiiiiiine
fun last weekend down south
more to come this weekend, north and south
been paid
am the Country Life centrefold (not seen it, sure it's hilarious)
being left to work in peace
scored tons of freelancing work
going to a birthday party tonight with my girls
goin' dancin' tomorrow night (and maybe sign painting?)
think have scored a new 5/4/3

Divers in a RIB.

Pednvounder, mind the nudies

Masked Ball tickets

Got some Masked Ball tickets for sale at the office or direct from me...excited already, perfect Glasto warmup!!

Lineup:
SIR VINYL OF THE FATTEST
GET WAXY/RESIDENTIAL DANCE HOME
SAMUEL J AND THE LIVING REVOLUTION feat 3CS BBOYS AND YML CREW
YOUR BOYFRIENDS ARE DJS
JAC THE DISCO
SOUTH CENTRAL

£25 inc. free camping, champagne, strawberries and so many possibilities…Levy clifftops. Might go for a surf the next morning...haha.

upping the game

Surf picked up yesterday, from nothing to 3-4ft in the evening. Fistral was busy (always two guys for every wave) and it was a disorganised, lumpy, cow-shit smelling, cold new swell. A sudden roar quickly followed by wind which has ruined it today. I didn't get far but there were quite a lot of frustrated faces around.

I wish Mitch would hurry up fixing the levy-kisses in my quad. I just don't like the Resin8 toothpick, it's corky, and when I got a good right it just felt so slow in comparison (plus my feet were frozen, = painful cutback). It's too small for me, I like my boards 6ft plus and loose. Like men...!

Anyway I don't really mind, still happy I had a few more at Levy the weekend before last...one late takeoff steep right fast as. I felt like Layne haha. And only five of us in after the morning crowd had faded away — a touch of onshore sent them all to the north coast. Kelv lost his board to the rocks and I dinged myself and the S4, fook tis shallow, but makes me smile. And had a few at Hendra which blasted sand into my suit, ears, eyes... Have had some good times round that end of the world recently.


I'll take the blue house, thanks.


Explorin