epic schmepic

I wish people would stop informing me how epic it's going to be. Epic swells down here mean me, and most others who are a) not amazing surfers b) are skint and c) have only a tiny window of time to surf in so can't search for somewhere that's not a) massively maxed out b) scary as fuck c) not jammed because it's sheltered… will not have as much fun as you would think.

hehehe

let me out

Can't wait to get out of the office and go home! Hoping there will be some small swell around in West Wales but not really couting on it...nothing here now and it's absolutely icy. I did have a Saturday surf and caught three okay ones, but now the rest is definitely doing me good.

Been thinking a lot about plastic, and woke up with an idea. Then I saw this and sighed. Unfortunately it's obvious to anyone who's been on a beach in the last few years that this is a serious problem. I might have to do something about it!

It's just one of a few things taking up my thoughts though, so we shall see. At the moment I'm not feeling very inspired because endless data entry numbs my brain :-(

raging

There are people who are raging in their seats every day because they want another way, but don't know how.'

I'm lucky i've got a pretty creative job, and I think I do 'know how', but still the urge to 'run across the office tables, singing no no you won't have me' is there. After the last horrible month or so (except Glasto was amazing) I can finally get back in the sea and I feel I can write again, and it's like a dam building up behind me!

'Having a day job doesn't make any of us less of an artist than anyone who is doing it full-time. Making art, makes us artists. What can you do consciously TODAY, where you sit, staring at this screen, that says THIS IS TRULY ME? Wake UP and begin where you are.'

I could quote the whole thing but…today I have half-written two articles and Belen is calling me from a Bica wave. So I'm getting there. (But I'm still not working/writing on a sailboat in the Mentwais with a solar laptop charger and MacBook ;-)

Just read The Book and damn, the mag looks good. Caught a couple of howlers

Oh and I love Raurri Joseph (more).

house

I absolutely love this house

But why are men so crap?

Can't afford that board unless I don't eat all July. Seeing as I couldn't even eat my free lunch, it's a possibly strategy.