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Jesus, there's no surf in Wales…

Well, all right, there's been a bit. I drove six hours with a van loaded to the roof with my whole life, got to the front and found clean small peaks peeling by the Bica, with just an old friend and one other surfer checking it. A really nice welcome back.

Since then I've been out twice in pretty tiny dire conditions. The S4 is at the superlative Drop In The Ocean, having been repaired (still suffering from Leven last year!). There should be a dribble on Friday…

In the meantime, I've joined the rowing club in order to get my oceanic fix. It seems, in the tradition of water-based clubs/sports/anything involving 2 or more people in Wales, to be a veneer for a drinking club. Excellent.

walking, surfing, thinking

I'm lucky to walk the beach path every day. On this morning last week, the Headland Hotel floated in the mist. Headless.


I just like this. The footing for some sort of pole, I guess. It's so weathered, it makes lovely reflections, it disappears and reappears as the sand levels change. It has a collection of very differently coloured pebbles held in the hole at the top. It's kind of like a little castle, surrounded by a moat, guarding its treasure.


A few days ago on the morning dog walk, a little brown hawk began to hover over me, looking to snaffle an early morning breakfast of the rodent kind from the bank above the Windswept Cafe. It was supremely confident in flight, feathers flipping here and there, body totally still. It turned to look at me, standing there updating the MSW eyeball surf report, dismissed me (despite some goon hollering "Wow! What a good photo you're going to get!" and carried on). It got really, really close, and caught something furry.

On Saturday I was surfing Gwithian, out from from the Jam Pot (yummy egg butties), and a dolphin/porpoise surfed a wave in front of me as I paddled out. It was a split-second view of a perfect arc. S/he had more fun out there than me - it was Baltic!


I've had a mad week this week, and I'm so looking forward to more of the above - quality time wtih good friends on lovely beaches! This is Rach, Abs, Laurz and Furtle in Marazion.

Back to business

Went for a surf on Saturday with friend and colleague Jane at Tolcarne. It was so sunny and quiet at 9am, most of the town still abed. Nice to surf the Bay without hordes of people in. No girls other than the two of us. We made it out deceptively easily, but a big wipeout and relentless closeouts did for Jane with her bigger board – no duck-diving that beast.

It was two foot-ish and clean, perfect to get into it again, but I couldn't get up! Popping fine but tripping over myself. Got one closeout — hm — and five where I tripped. But it was sunny and I wasn't toooo cold (hands were, gloves are thick as but not great still). Stayed out a couple of hours though so not bad. Don't feel too unfit. Duck-diving was hideous, pure tortre after one or two. But the air was clean and the water smooth, and the last wave was a funny wipeout…so I'll take that.

Monday saw a quiet day so I took the chance to head to Fistral which had perfect three-foot peaks in sunshine and the doleys/hospitality workers/self-employed were making the most of it. Here I fared a little better and paddled as hard as I could to grab a couple of okay ones. It was more the chance to sit and unravel a few things in my mind that sticks it as a good surf. And the beach so empty, the time just mine.

Everything unfrozen, there seems more life about the beach now. The fogs have been crazy recently; always make you look at the land anew. And I've seen a huge dead jellyfish (rare that size, rarer still in winter) and a very much alive hawk, hunting the bank above the Windswept Cafe. Plus snowdrops are poking up by the front door. Nature, waves and yoga are prising my conciousness up from a recent slump, and I remember tajitu and the interconnectedness of everything.

disconnected

Today I spent my lunch hour in Aldi carpark, watching the waves. I should have got in there. Three feet, clean, calm and sunny, and actually peeling for once. A handful out down beyond the baby waves of Towan. It was beautiful.

My initial reaction? Not to belt it back to my van, fight into my suitbootshoodrashyglovesplugs combo and race in, but just to stand and watch. How often do I do that? Rhetorical question. Never. Neverever. I live here, surf here and work here, so there's always something to be doing other than gawping like a tourist (best way to insult a local, tell them they look like a visitor).

What I did do, in fact, was drag out the iPhone and tweet. I had the urge to update my Facebook status as well, but then another set rolled in and I just watched it. I am always updating endless accounts wherever I go, mostly for work, but sometimes I don't want to. I just want to keep it to myself (and the crusty hanging off the railing next to me). This view and these 20 minutes of peace, chin resting on hands resting on fencepost, eyes resting on horizon, are mine, just mine.

Half-asleep in the sunshine, I idly thought about SUPpers (why, no really, why do they do it?), where bomb sets come from, and other questions that only occur to me when my fingers (cut-paste-tap-tap-slide) are forced to cease fidgeting, lulled by rare sunshine on rare unglovedness.

Then NatWest texted me to tell me my balance. Why do they call it balance when it's always sliding hellishly towards a Mines of Moria darkness? I was jacked back in. So I bought the Super Six in Aldi (RedLasering a few things as I went) and came back here to write a randomness. Now my cut-paste reflex is revving up, so I must get back to work.

…I should have got in there.

happy surfers

This is Gus, who bought my old T&C board about six weeks ago. It was rather hard to tell whether the board would suit him or not, as he lives on the south coast and I live in Cornwall, but it looks like he's pretty happy with it! Makes me rather sad as I bought that board in Fuerte and it really ramped my surfing level up when I came back from Oz. Good memories, but hey, I outgrew it and I'm glad someone else loves it too.

I've had one really good surf at Fistral recently, but work and dark nights has precluded the amount of waves I'd like to have grabbed… Yesterday was nice, 2-3ft clean peaks but the crowd was pretty bad and the new bright pink-armed wetsuit makes me feel like a right prat. Still, it was a bargain…


Nothing like a proud mama for taking surf photos on a cold crappy day!

Heather Clark

Surfer's Village: 'South African Surfing Champion, 2008 ISA World Masters Women’s Champion and former World Championship Tour surfer, Heather Clark, is in hospital today after being seriously injured in a car accident near her home in Port Shepstone Thursday (October 22).'

Six or seven years ago I went to a Gul one-day surf coaching event on Fistral and Heather Clark was there. The waves were the usual 3ft of lumpy onshore, but we all had a great time and she was lovely – the first pro surfer girl I'd seen, so I was blown away by how well she surfed in crap waves, and she was happy and positive; she answered everyone's questions in detail and came out for a surf, cheering us all on.

Some arsehole drunk driver has put her in hospital with serious injuries which are racking up big medical bills, and he's walked away without a scratch too. There are appeals going on to help her pay, and I hope she recovers well and soon. If you can afford a few dollars, donate via JettyGirl.
Update: Join the Facebook group

snap

Couple of foot in the Bay, a few sneaking through that didn't close out, a reasonable lunchtime session. Better than last night, where the waves were better but I caught nothing, lost an earplug and snapped my leash...

Surf Watch iPhone app

There are surprisingly few surf apps around for the iPhone and iPod Touch, and most of them are a bit crap (with the notable exceptions of WindGuru and the Oakley surf report). Enter Surf Watch from Tap Tapas; at £5.99 it’s not the cheapest, but I think that’s probably an accurate reflection of the development time that’s gone into it. From the neat little clicks and James Bond-esque sounds down to the thorough help screens and the seamless, uncluttered interface, it’s quality.

Just pick your buoy/s anywhere in the world and you can then view past data including tides, with your top three buoys displayed dashboard-style for at-a-glance checks. But the beauty is the forecasting and alerts. Enter the ideal conditions for surf nearby, and when your criteria are met, it’ll tell you via an alarm or alert between times you specify. Never miss a surf again!
It couldn’t find tide data for any of my buoys which is a bit disappointing as that’s so important in the UK — maybe they need to keep adding data. It’d be quite nice to have a choice of skins as well, but that’s just me trying to find something less than positive to say — this really is a wicked little app. Also, the developer was super-quick with help and advice, which is always a bonus.

So toss out some of the less-than-stellar freebie apps for tide times, buoy data and forecasts, add this, and I think you’ll probably end up using it more than the rest of them put together.

Here is the link for the iTunes store:
http://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=300739477&mt=8

Website with video:
www.surfwatchapp.com

OceanDaze and Whoopsadaze

Two more ace surfs…one was at the Bay, and boy was it crowded - loads of spongers left over from the Wedge Air Jam, all DKing and paddling around people on the peak………anyway I had loadsa waves and one long left with a cutback and a re-entry as well as a few turns…it won't last but it's good!

Then Whoops last night, 'Don't even bother to check it Kat just get in there, you'll love it' and I did. Along with Lev and home, I just can't decide which is my favourite. Good surfers out there yest, good waves. Whoops teaches, but yesterday it just served them on a plate. Yum.

Also waiting to get paid so I can reserve myself a ticket for the OceanDaze festival in Sennen, a perfect end to the (so-called) summer. Going to be sick.

whoops

Wow I've been slack…loads of good surfs though Glasto disrupted things a bit!

Went straight to Whoopsadasies after work last night and glad I did (avoided cos of size night before, and regretted going to the gay Bay again). The wind dropped and the push gave it shelter, it was still messy but I enjoyed it loads and loads… Only a few people out, 3ft lumps pushing through. Made a huge sucky drop on one right, sheer determination. Missed quite a few but it wasn't an easy ride. There was a navy rescue copter buzzing over us for a while as well - I have an irrational love for them.

Got quite a few waves happy enough, but in general just a much better session though I got loads more waves in the bay the day before. Happier to challenge self a bit, though in the end it was more like my perfect size really, nothing to scare me. Fell off one (in front of a smirking boy of course) really hard, winded myself and hurt. Whoops always teaches! Always. But apart from the last wave I was taking off properly and doing what could be done on them. It's so gorgeous there and peaceful too, so much enjoyed.

seal mama

Wow, seems like it's been flat for ages, but really it's not that long at all. Had a perfect surf at Fistral last weekend despite a hangover. It was quite small, but sunny and peaky and I had loads of waves. A small seal (Baby? Female?) appeared out of the back of one wave and took a look at me, then dived and swam under my board. That's happened a few times now but never gets old! No-one else even noticed it. Yes I did pick my feet up, just in case.

Sunday was a beach day, cliff jumping and paddling about (finally in the 3/2), then sitting in the sun drinking far, far too much…

Having trouble concentrating today as a report just came in that Levy is working on this south swell. I have no chance of getting there but I won't be able to sit still all day now.

a few reasons i is quite happy today

lovely perfect surf
sunshiiiiiine
fun last weekend down south
more to come this weekend, north and south
been paid
am the Country Life centrefold (not seen it, sure it's hilarious)
being left to work in peace
scored tons of freelancing work
going to a birthday party tonight with my girls
goin' dancin' tomorrow night (and maybe sign painting?)
think have scored a new 5/4/3

Divers in a RIB.

Pednvounder, mind the nudies

good day so far

Sweet little couple of offshore feet at Fistral, 'Golf Terrace Peak' doing its thing... Made peace with the Resin8 (but it'll always be second best - just not lively enough) and had plenty of good waves. Feet cold though.

Then 'helped' with the board shoot, aka touching up about 10 lovely retro shapes from Down The Line. Would not be able to choose which to try first - it's between these two:


























and there was a wicked purple one too…and the Byron Board…oh…

upping the game

Surf picked up yesterday, from nothing to 3-4ft in the evening. Fistral was busy (always two guys for every wave) and it was a disorganised, lumpy, cow-shit smelling, cold new swell. A sudden roar quickly followed by wind which has ruined it today. I didn't get far but there were quite a lot of frustrated faces around.

I wish Mitch would hurry up fixing the levy-kisses in my quad. I just don't like the Resin8 toothpick, it's corky, and when I got a good right it just felt so slow in comparison (plus my feet were frozen, = painful cutback). It's too small for me, I like my boards 6ft plus and loose. Like men...!

Anyway I don't really mind, still happy I had a few more at Levy the weekend before last...one late takeoff steep right fast as. I felt like Layne haha. And only five of us in after the morning crowd had faded away — a touch of onshore sent them all to the north coast. Kelv lost his board to the rocks and I dinged myself and the S4, fook tis shallow, but makes me smile. And had a few at Hendra which blasted sand into my suit, ears, eyes... Have had some good times round that end of the world recently.


I'll take the blue house, thanks.


Explorin

can't surf :-(

So one minute I'm getting loads of long rides, doing proper cutbacks, re-entries and even getting some spray off top turns and having a couple at Levy, the next minute I can't even take off properly. I know surfing goes in stages, but this one can fuck right off...hence lack of posting, as it would all say the same thing - 'getting to my feet with all the grace of a lumbering elephant with moon boots on'. Nor-appy.

Do have a plan - don't stress it too much, do loads of dry-land popping up, get fitter (2 surfs a day should do it, plus am running, yoga etc.). And just wait for it to pass...

rippy rubbish

Went for a surf this morning, it looked 3ftish quite clean, one out. 5 out when I got in, 3ft+ but SO SO weird… hopped in at usual spot, massive rip to north, would have been round Little by the time I paddled out, so I got out and walked further up to South. I paddled out not far shy of halfway to South and got ripped all the way there, so two great big currents running.

There was an inside line of waves breaking then calmness, totally, nothing breaking on the rip. Nice 3-4fters coming through, the crest breaking but no wave appearing, just fattened out. The longboarders were okay, and there were some lefts looking all right right dead on South, but the rest of it was bastarding awful, so frustrating. Not breaking or totally closing out. I hate sitting in a rip, but there was nowhere else to go.

I lasted about 40 minutes, caught nothing (5'11") and gave up — too much to do today to bother fighting it. I suppose it might be better at another state of tide. There's hardly any wind and the sun is actually out, so it should be nice but it just really isn't. And when you've got a new board to try and had someone ringing up at 8am going 'Where were ya attack, you'd'a loved it!' it's doubly frustrating. I want my van back!

Another gift day?

Ahhh beautiful surf! Van dead so had to be Fistral, but it was lush so don't mind. 3ft clean peaks, so easy to surf it today. Had three really good waves and one too-frozen-to-pop-up one. Long rides, too. First one was a beauty, popped up perfect and did three sets of carving turns on my backhand, and everything happened exactly as I meant it. Some days I feel like I'm useless (Thursday), some I feel I can surf!

Now off to watch the rugby with friends and a good few beers. Wales are going to beat England so hard! Nothing better than watching that while the rest of the country stuffs down overpriced meals and tries to look happy to be there…hehehe cynic ;-) Love love love…

fistraly goodness, part 2

I'm putting my best shots on the CARVE blog instead of here at the moment, trying to build up traffic with a daily surf shot. But it's actually nice for the first time in what seems like ages, so I've taken a few today. Hope to get in at lunchtime…maybe…a few things to sort out first, i.e. way too much work to do!

Vic Pool

Since building some new decking which leans further over the tram tracks, the Hotel Victoria has given the casual (trespassing?) surf-checker a better view of their (?) abandoned pool. Almost as big a waste of cliff-edge as the Aldi being built next door.

Doesn't it just make you dream of what you could do with it? Parties, training, and a fast-track to the waves…

new gloves - lovely

Fistral this morning — looks all right, but it wasn't! Just lumpy as.

No wind, good swell, bet it's lush at Levy — Steve's gone for the second time today! I don't dare abuse the 'surf when you like' privilege quite that much. Deadline Friday…

Sunny as today too. Just went in the Bay, Towan — pretty awful. Tide too low, I knew it would be, but hey. Checked it — no-one out, got in, 12 out?!

Just closeouts, closeouts and more closeouts. It's a big drop then straighten out, and more often than not it sucks dry as well, or if not dry then very shallow and sandy enough to scour your eyes out. Ah well. I got (and stuck) three elevator drops, and it's all good practice for other places that have big steep drops. Other places that then peel…or even barrel. Sigh…maybe Monday.

Shralp

Fistral this morning…

By lunchtime it was looking pretty rubbish though — all the waves of two sets bar one closed out. Didn't fancy the paddlefest but so keen to get in I went to Tolcarne. Had an inkling that an hour's push would leave it on some actual sandbanks for a change.

Glad I did. It was small but peeling, hardly anyone out (well, it is 9.6 degrees C in there).

I got a few and felt much better for it.

“The cure for anything is salt water; sweat, tears, or the sea.” -- Isak Dinesen

Doesn't quite cure the let-me-out-of-here winter blues, but it helps! Had a eureka moment with an article (always get ideas in the sea), and caught a really nice left. I did a top turn and threw actual spray! Okay, not miles, but…a little bit of shralp, as my friend Louis would say…

I still have two hours of yoga to do tonight…I think I will sleep well, and dream of water.

staying home a bit longer

what to do…

Hard to know what to do on the last day before Xmas when there're only three people in the office, and none of them making any pretence at actually doing any work…so here's the list of the things I have done…

• Surf check (8am).
• Stole toast from housemate.
• Poured Malteser fudge into a tub. Didn't set. Brother won't care.
• Surfed 2-3ft clean South Fistral. Three nice waves, a few rubbish ones. Paddlefest - can't bear all the neoprene. Love the earplugs – can't hear shit but the sound of my own breathing Vader-magnified, they're uncomfortable under a hood and they're yet another thing to remember, but as I no longer have to shake my head like an inbred puppy to dislodge water every time I surface, 'tis all good.
• Entered work approx. 1 hour late and dripping. Good going.
• Popped enough pills to keep me vertical for next few hours.
• Chatted with Steve about surf.
• Swiped pair of boardies out of eBay pile.
• Refused to take part in office cleaning rampage.
• Reset tide watch.
• Checked Facebook.
• Texted Laura re: missing her in the surf and her new Adams. Not jealous. Could not stand a boyfriend who bought me a surfboard for Xmas…
• Read +1, an odd but good skate/music/stuff mag. Pinched a few ideas.
• Went to charity shop for trashy novel.
• Went to Subway for trashy food. A Veggie Delight is apparently one of the lowest fat ones they do – no shit, it's got nothing in it. Then they ask if you want any salad. Better had, hadn't I? (Serves me right for going there.)
• Updated my about page – wrong text been on there for ages.
• Checked my balance. (Jesus' birthday is expensive. As are ale fests.)
• Listened to Jason Feast rave about his new fisheye.
• Listened to Rob talk about sharks in Cape Verde.
• Brushed teeth. Subway is yuk.
• Created a page for SurfGirl website. Think am turning into a hippy.
• Wondered if the boss would let us off even five minutes early :-(
• Made a few stars.

I am the master of frittering time away.

Porthleven Realm Comp

They held the Realm comp (after a three year wait!) on Sunday 14th. I guess it was about six foot - pretty much on the borderline of what I'd surf in, anyway (maybe, if I was feeling pretty brave).

Sam Lamiroy won with two good barrels in the final, but there were loads of awesome surfers and it was a privilege to watch despite the drizzle and cold. Who knows who would have won had the surf club dinner and dance (and debauch) not been on the night before?!

Didn't get in myself, which was frustrating, but it was a good day anyway. Can learn a lot just from being around great surfers…and the fire in the Ship was lovely too!


The peak at the end of the wall was really good too, with loads of spongers on it. The small boat is apparently being piloted by 'Bodger' (I think that's what my friend said). The big one - more of a mystery, but it's been enjoying a view of Levy for about a week now.

i love levy

Porthleven's legendary reefbreak always seemed a rather unattainable goal, but I wanted it anyway. Saturday I surfed a couple of waves there, and just loved it. It's the closest place to home I've been in Cornwall (in spirit, I'm not comparing the wave).

I jumped off the rocks with a couple of colleagues telling myself respect but not fear - then realised I wasn't even slightly afraid. It was only small, after all…but the crowd was insane, hence the low wave count. I didn't want to drop in or get in the way, and I didn't.

I was smiling all the way through, and then all day - it was a perfect day. Hope I get another chance soon. Less of a crowd would be amazing, so I'll be watching charts and getting to work late.

shh

My weekend was perfect…I'd post a photo of where I camped up but it's a secret spot. Four surfs over two days, a touch of sunburn, tired and happy… Magic and surreal. Deadline tomorrow and if I start on the details I'll be here forever!

Surf's quite good today as well, a run then a surf and I'm tired again. I seem to be getting more good waves…hope I'm not jinxing myself saying that…

Just want more of all of it.

epic schmepic

I wish people would stop informing me how epic it's going to be. Epic swells down here mean me, and most others who are a) not amazing surfers b) are skint and c) have only a tiny window of time to surf in so can't search for somewhere that's not a) massively maxed out b) scary as fuck c) not jammed because it's sheltered… will not have as much fun as you would think.

two sweet seshs

It's more like autumn than summer at the moment, with showers and coolness - plus waves!

Last week's session was a good one - I only caught one wave, but that place has a habit of always teaching me something new. I wasn't confident still, because of time out of the water and lack of punchy swell. But I got one good one (despite a snaking-ish from a sponger) and didn't back off waves so…that's all right. Lovely swell, few good surfers but room enough, and loved being in the water.

Nothing since, until yesterday when a clean 3ft session was had at Tolcarne after work. Due to wanting to actually catch some waves this time I passed on the clean a-frames at last session's spot. And catch some I did. Tolcarne just closes out but I had a couple of decent lefts where I was cutting back and doing more drawn-out turns, which is the aim of the game at the moment. I also took off on two stupidly steep closeouts and made them, and I rode my last wave all the way in, which always feels good.

Not looking great today, but I'll probably go out later just to keep the fitness going…

Pictures to come when I find the damn camera lead…

Boardmasters circus

Well, apart from a shite grovelly few waves on the fish at Porthtowan on Sat morning, I've not been in the surf. However, today it's four feet and clean at Fistral, so I'm off to the local's spot, whoops can't tell you the name, at lunchtime when the tide will be perfect. As most of my colleagues think the Boardmasters is an excellent excuse to not be in the office (100th issue deadline notwithstanding) I am going to follow their lead. I may have forgotten to bring my waterproof watch.

sweet summer swell

This was Fistral yesterday morning, very sweet, wished I'd got up earlier! But Weds was a bit bigger, a bit much for my first surf back (esp with high tide and ridiculous crowds), and I thought it was picking up. Shoulda got up!


So nice.

As the van's door has all but fallen off and my bike's braked have seized onto the rims I was walking to work with the S4 (also dinged, now fixed). Hopped a lift with David to north Fistral at lunchtime to do battle with the lunchy crowd. Every wave had someone on it whether I was on the peak or trying for the sneakers. Caught one crap one. Boo. Sunshine was amazing though.

Cancelled the Cornwall Surfer Girls meeting to surf in the evening. Took furtle down the beach to play stone and sussed the emptiest peak. I don't care about the best, I need the emptiest. There's always one the sheep aren't on. Hopped in and stayed out ages, got back in tune with the board and loved it. I love that board. Now I'm thinking about different fins though! I need a bit more drive, I can't stamp on it and force it as much with those little grom fins. Haha I'm such an expert now. But in little waves, unless I'm fully in tune and popped up bang in the right place, I'm not booting it and feeling in sync. Obv partly my fault, but if the fins could help…will sell the old ones as well, defo, don't want two set the fucking same and they're not even proper quad fins anyway, I wanna try the ones made for the board. Will test drive first obvs…
but yeah sell those fins, they cost a fortune they did. Fair enouugh if i break one

I got loads of waves including a couple of good ones where I was driving down the line, racing to stay up with the wave and did make it. Also one re-entry, probably looked pants but I enjoyed it. A lot.

There were some fat high tide ones that were hard to get onto and faded as soon as you'd taken off. I was taking off then doing that weaving, pushing things that gets you on waves, or gets the good surfers on waves, little s-turns down the face to get some speed. I love the feeling of doing that and presto! It really works too.

Yeah so one righthander that was really good actually, though I wasn't totally in tune and stylin' on it like I want to be more. But they were all good waves, I'm not such a bad surfer…

Was warm this morning, lovely water, just three of us for quite a while. Another girl who was good but why the boots? Abs does well, straight up and backside angled takeoff, ain't nobody told her how she just gets it. I want her to try Penny, she doesn't need 6'8" of corky batteredness.

Well tired now. Glad to get back in properly, apart from a few tiny wave surfs I've been out for six weeks! And the surf session with Krisha for Cornwall Surfer Girls which went on ITV Westcountry…but they only showed one wave of me…

quick paddle

A quick heads-up to Lori, who writes about surfing at The Surfing Village. I love finding new blogs, but this time someone found me! And I thought it was just my brother who read my rubbish!

Although I am supposed to be out of the water for another month, I went for a paddle on Sunday just to get in the ocean. Big sigh of relief! All those silly land based things that had grown in importance in my mind were reduced once more to their proper place in the world. Behind surfing, that is.

I paddled from the harbour to Great Western, which ain't that far. Caught a few waves (naughty, but I needed them! And they were sweet) then paddled back much happier.

dry

Well, it's been just over two weeks out of the water and I'm SO DRY. I miss being in the ocean…but once this mad swell has died down I'll get in just for a paddle. No surfing for about another month though. I am worried that my fitness will vanish (especially with all the summer partying going on) so I have to get back on it after Glasto.

A cool thing:

Your Vitality type is... Your dominant Vitality type is Roots “Some see me as shy but I have hidden depths.” Roots people are: Artistic * sensitive * practical * idealistic * patient * structured * tenacious * profound thinkers * persistent * good at detail Element: Earth. You’re a Roots type… thoughtful Roots people are often creative and artistic. Think of the roots of a tree, how far they spread and how they provide strong foundations, structure and stability. You share many of those characteristics; you’re full of profound and far reaching thoughts. Capable of seeing through superficial reasons for things, you seek out the true cause and connections instead. You love silence and solitude and your interior world is of tremendous importance as you find great pleasure in reflection. You’re not a socialite but you are extremely loyal to the friends you do have. However, too much reflection can make others see you as daydreamer, your strong connection to the interior world can leave you easily hurt by others. You have a tendency towards stubbornness and you can become pessimistic which leads to worry. You may often experience insomnia as you lie awake brooding on the day and you can be inclined to depression. Roots people rebalance with uplifting herbs and by indulging their creative side. Life Coaching or counselling can help you focus on the positive. They optimise their Vitality by creating a peaceful environment where their efforts are appreciated and they are free to reflect and create.

out of the water

Had a good surf last Thursday with a couple of colleagues at Whoopsadasies…low tide, quite heavy, sand dredging three footers. Some barrels even (not with me in them). Took the 6'1" out and had a few steep drops but only found one wall really. Still, it was nice to be out in something more challenging than tiny. It dropped for the weekend and I had a small frustrating one on the fat fish, lots of people out at Godrevy and very small waves. Last surf for a couple of months…

Saving grace for that last surf was a cheeky baby seal who popped up to take a look at me then swam under my board and did a little belly roll out the other side. He then popped up to see if I was still watching, blew some spray and swam off. Lovely! Here's a cute one.

Let's hope there are no more strandings of our wonderful marine life :-(

Surfstock!!!

Tickets are now on sale for Surfstock, 29-30 August at St Agnes. The lineup includes The Gossip, Supergrass, the Go! Team and The Likes with 60+ acts on four stages. There’s also the Cult Energy Drink Tag Team Surf Challenge and Tow-At Challenge with a £10,000 prize purse (the largest in the UK). This year’s festival also includes the first annual Surfstock H30 British Big Wave Awards in association with CARVE magazine, with six categories and £3500 prize money. Surfstock ticket holders will vote for the Surfer Of The Year and Photo Of The Year. Tickets and more info available from www.surfstock.co.uk at £80 (including two nights camping). Kids under 14 go free! To enter the Tag Team Challenge, register your team of four as soon as possible: crewchallenge@surfstock.co.uk.

fat fish

The SurfGirl board test was no fun for me, didn't even get in the water! But we got good stuff. Then I tried out an Escape 6'3" quad fish, and oh my. I did fall in love properly in tiny Fistral waves traded with the editor. Then I took it to perfect Penhale - quite small and high tide and a few too many hassling, but the board flew and I flew where others were struggling. One perfect wave where I went miles at speed and felt so in tune. A deal was struck and the little fatty is mine! Overdraft what?

Since then I've been out on it once and I hate hate hate summertime Fistral. Do NOT just sit there in my way like the lump of clueless girl on pink board that you are! Move when someone's on a wave and you're in the way! It makes me ashamed of girl surfers. Grr.

Nice waves yesterday and blew the deadlines to surf Whoopsadasies at about 3ft and quite heavy actually…had three steep drop to closeout waves, ah well…it was just nice to get back into it. Possibly the last surf for a couple of months now…

Gay Bay

Had one session last week at 2-3ft Fistral, really peaky and quite clean but shifting all over the place. Two good rights, tore them apart (haha). Then today (two foot closeout Gay Bay) I couldn't catch anything and couldn't be bothered, especially with evils off some weirdo for (I presume) being 'in the way' of another guy when I wasn't.

It's supposed to go nice tomorrow i.e. offshore, clean, three feet and sunny, so I guess I'll try again then. People are abandoning the hoods and gloves, and some even the boots. I was still cold though. I dream of Australia, or Costa Rica (reading Captain Zero again).

Like a lion

Here's the bay this morning…not much going on surf wise (a few out) but I think I will go for a paddle anyway, just for the exercise. Those rowers made me feel lazy!

It's been absolutely dire this past week. Last Thursday's lovely morning surf, where I stayed in far too long and had the best left in a long time (several good strong turns and cutting back) is but a lovely memory. April really has come in like a lion, so much wind and rain, but there's not much swell on the horizon. I need some waves!

Quick, the wind dropped!

Two surfs in one day! I just felt like it, it wasn't that the surf was amazing. Lunchtime session at Tolcarne/GW with Joe from work. Couple of feet, found one nice left, one nice right spoilt by a gawking sponger and a few okay ones which pretty much closed out. The wind had dropped and the sun was out. After work Fistral looked nicer so I ran down for about half an hour before it got dark. Stokesy, Mitch Corbett and Welsh Ben were out there with Brad Kemp snapping, far too much talent for me to surf near so I stayed in the middle, but I got one good right which was all I wanted. Not much hope for the weekend as it's getting stormy again.

Book review: Return By Water, Kimball Taylor

It's subtitled Surf Stories and Adventures — there's no telling what's fiction and what's based on fact; I think it's mostly fact, snippets of the story behind the story which eventually made it into Surfer or whatever publication sent him across the world. Some good, some seemed a little pointless/unfinished, but his style is compelling. It made me want to travel and see this side of the surfing lifestyle — the constant journeying, new cultures, perceptions and discoveries, so far from the cold, inconsistent, crowded UK… 7/10

storms leave surf

Storms are over, and there's surf!

It was big and crumbly at Fistral this morning, but surfable. The wind's dropped, it's the most miserable rainy grey day you've ever seen, but there are 2-3ft waves (yeah, and lots of closeouts) in the Bay.

I should be on it! But I left my gear at home. I didn't think it'd be any good…that'll teach me.

I didn't even bring my camera with me today. Other things are getting in the way, but I'll surf tomorrow.



Here's a pretty pink flower from St Mawgan churchyard, taken last weekend.

It's not rocket science

The MOD have had enough of surfers at a certain break not so far from Bournemouth ignoring them and are reputed to be closing all access to the break. The locals have had enough of people blocking access and speeding through the village as well.

It's not exactly a secret spot, thanks to the likes of Wannasurf and many of the guidebooks, but the real problem is ignorance. The local crew have been quietly enjoying (and respecting) the place for years. Everyone should do the same, whether they're going to the middle of nowhere through a firing range or rocking up at Fistral.

When faced with a classic yet fickle spot doing its thing, where's the sense of awe and respect gone?


Magic Seaweed discussion (the usual ranting)

The Bay comes good

Nice one. At last!

Joe was well up for it as well, we all (Al too) went to check Whoopsadasies. No-one out, quite clean but a little out of control. So hard to tell from the top of the cliff! We suited up. As I was pulling my hood on the mother of all sets rolled in; the boys didn't see it and paddled straight out. I was a bit behind them. They stopped and started to take little inside ones (head high). I was like, boys, you have not paddled all the way out. As I got to the bottom of the steps a proper set came in and they were inside. I just didn't fancy the paddleout and instead climbed back up those bloody steps!

Went to Great Western instead. Paddled straight out onto a nice peak with a group of northerner 18-year-olds on it, all hooting at closeouts and enjoying the warmer water no doubt. I could tell they're not locals 'cos one smiled and said hello to me! (Sad but true.)

Got quite a few straighanders, two nice lefts where I went along for a little bit with this super steep wall next to my back, just waiting for it to close out but not minding really. Almost pulled into the second one that did that, but hesitated just a touch too long to do it. Next time.

What makes me happy is I managed to get one nice right and work it properly with a few turns. It wasn't amazing but I took off properly, stayed one, bottom and top turned and kept with the power pocket. Was really nice. I also got a pretty long left where I had to spend most of the time going around people! But was still happy with what I did with it.

It was only like two foot out there, but there were some peeling ones, especially earlier on. The later it got the more it closed out as low tide approached. We all took a few really good razor-sharp lip closeouts to the legs and head…several of the boys seemed more excited by being faced with a three foot cylinder about to detonate a foot in front of them than the actual rideable waves. I suppose that's a good way to look at it. There was certainly nothing to be worried about, you only get a quick tumble. (Story of…etc.)

So anyway, I got one great wave and I feel like my trip away (the hassle continues) wasn't wasted, that I did get somewhere. I'm definitely fitter, and must carry on with surfing, swimming, yoga, biking, walking…I do loads actually!

I had the song 'I'm in over my head' playing over and over in the water - not good! I had to forcibly change it to 'I wanna be a rock star'! Talk about talking myself out of surfing! I think I would have been in over my head, Joe said it was quite big and he's been dripping water ever since coming back. I just didn't fancy the struggle, I needed waves to show me that I can bloody surf!

Saturday swell pulse

Woke early and ready to get on it for the predicted pulse of swell. Still offshore and calm. Drove to Porthtowan and was there by 7.30ish. Freezing. Swift change into horrible heavy rubbery suit. I can't move in that bloody thing! Steve turned up smoking a fag.

We paddled out and I proceeded to be an arse. Two waves he called me into, the second was just a closeout anyway but the first was sweet! But I thought it was closing out on me so puled back. It was about 3ft out there, clean and peeling. A crowd of about ten all in all, it was okay at first just a few, then too many for the one peak. One other girl which was good to see. Steve had some nice ones but his twinny skipped out on at least one I saw. Oh, the waves were so nice! But all I managed to catch was three straighthanders before I had to admit that I couldn't feel my feet, my neck was killing me and I was getting nowhere fast. It was mostly the wetsuit and partly the crowd, I hate both. I know I can surf better than that, I have been doing so for the last two weeks, consistently. I have to get used to the cold again, and I have to not fuck about. Honestly. It was a lovely day, bit hazy but only a gentle offshore and the sun peeked out and the water was glassy. The boogers were loving it, pulling into closeout shorebreaks as I got out. It dropped really, really fast, but that one bank in front of the cliffs at the north end was good.

So I hopped out and changed, had a hot chocolate with mint, sat on the wall and threw sticks for Furtle. Love my van.

sunshine

Back to reality! It's warm for February, which at least means I'm not shivering away and wishing myself back in the Caribbean. Small 2-3ft clean, sunny, offshore waves at Fistral today and I got a few in at lunchtime, a nice welcome home. The cold doesn't bother me so much as the wetsuit, which feels heavy and stinky after boardies. I think a 4/3 next time I buy a suit! Lovely peeling waves today…hope there's more of that to come.

Pictured is the cutest puppydog we wanted to take home from Playa Grande after one of his pack chewed on his little head. Covered in fleas and really skinny, but a lovely nature. I hope he's okay.

Proof I can surf!

Okay, it's nothing radical, but here's me at Encuentro (I think) in the Dominican Republic, proof at last that I'm not totally shit.

Dominican Republic - tally

2 x egg bruises (fins)
1 x fin cut
3 x bad wax rubs
10 x urchin spines
1 x aching neck
2 x burnt cheeks
1 x picture of me actually surfing (1 x wipeout as well)
20 x ish waves today

1 x happy surfer girl

skip skip skip (limp)

Dominican Republic Day 1

Mostly going to post on the SurfGirl blog as I am actually supposed to be here for work ;-) but will also update here because I'm just too excited to shut up!

It is all the cliches of paradise here, the surf's not ace yet but it will be. Had two 2-3ft surfs in boardies today, tired as now. Girls are all cool, place is amazing, it's warm...I hadn't realised how much I've been struggling in the winter waves of Cornwall! Had two rubbish small Bay surfs at the weekend, bored, crowded, freezing, then come here and my first wave is better than anything I've had in ages. Had three or four that I was so pleased with actually.

Also had a local bust an air right in front of me and his board landed on my nose. Eek! Hurt, saw stars, but it's not broken again at least. He was very apologetic, I think he just meant to make the point I was in his way. I couldn't really help it, but I know you gotta really stay out of the localss way! Thing is, there was no-one out either time we paddled out, I think the boys were just super curious to see 7 surfer girls and had to come take a look.

They girls are all better than me, obvs, which is going to make me work hard! I want to catch a barrel, and I will, I'm determined.

Hmm, time for a beer.

still windy...

Searching for surf saturday. Bay looked ho hum. Got a lift with Laura and Josh up to Harlyn, which was moslty closing out and so so rammed with students. So we went looking. Checked out a reef, a little sheltered bay, the Doom Bar and had a nice curried pasty in Padstow, which is so gorgeous.

Ended up going home again as tide got too high for Harlyn on the second check. Saw a surfer girl I vaguely know in the carpark, she said hi to Josh, blatantly I'm with him (well, not like that obvs), I said hi and she completely ignored me. Stood there for a little, can never quite believe what a bitch she is, then carried on back to car. Honestly. Why be so rude?

So went for a nap then hopped in at Great Western. Hell of a paddle out. More than one boy looked surprised when I made it out. Fucking determined. Think I did well considering being ill all week but it was hard work, 3ft plus and actually quite powerful. Ie I got my arse kicked a few times! One 4ft barrel hit me square, not fun, but it's never as bad as france so…and yes, I did say barrel, and in the bay! Saw one guy get in, but not out of one. I had one nice left and another not great one. Not an ace session by any means, but it was only about an hour.

I read something on Surferbrat about how much patience surfing in winter takes. Too right. More searching, more waiting, more battling.

surfing is dangerous!

Gosh, better cut down on the elevator-ing as well.



From the superlative XKCD.com, via P

fixed

Whatever the hell was wrong with my surfing seems to have fixed itself! The last three surfs have been great. One at dawn on my own at North Fistral on 22nd Dec, one at Watergate a week or so ago, and yesterday at Tolcarne where I found the longest left I've had in ages as well as a really good right. Happy!

Camera seems to have fixed itself (it got over its hangover...) so I will start taking it down the beach again.

Japan are up to their shit again.

My trip to the Dominican Republic is coming up really soon. My passport isn't back, I haven't had my jabs, I have no reef boots - I'm totally disorganised. I guess it's because I can't quite belive I'm really going somewhere so amazing!

no surf

Nuts that Occy's retiring! But a good excuse for a fun micro-site.

Been no surf up here in West Wales so far...just keep hoping!

let me out

Can't wait to get out of the office and go home! Hoping there will be some small swell around in West Wales but not really couting on it...nothing here now and it's absolutely icy. I did have a Saturday surf and caught three okay ones, but now the rest is definitely doing me good.

Been thinking a lot about plastic, and woke up with an idea. Then I saw this and sighed. Unfortunately it's obvious to anyone who's been on a beach in the last few years that this is a serious problem. I might have to do something about it!

It's just one of a few things taking up my thoughts though, so we shall see. At the moment I'm not feeling very inspired because endless data entry numbs my brain :-(

break

Two surfs and not a wave caught, and perfect conditions. No idea what's going on but I'll try again tomorrow then have a rest. Clearly there are people a lot worse off than me etc. etc. but still, I'm not very happy.

never enough

Ahhhhhhhhhh I know I'm lucky to get to surf at lunchtime but AN HOUR IS NOT ENOUGH! Not when it's blue sky, light winds, so many places to choose from, so few surfers in the crispy cold water, clean lines at all the spots, two foot to double overhead, shall I go eek or play it safe, why is there no-one in at Whoopsadowndasies, my favourite, why do I have to end up in the Bay again? Why is my first wave always the best - ah racing the wall and two clean lazyily drawn easy easy turns, like I actually know what I'm doing out here. A few straighthanders, I give those little dragons a talking to. Hot blonde boy and hot Irish boy start chatting in the lulls, always nice to have something to, er, spectate on…

Then a little visit from that nice Mole, looking like he's been hidden underground for a while with that facial growth! Telling us the Cribber may be 10ft tomorrow and there might be some tow action to watch, feast your eyes.

The whole coast is stoked, racing time and tides to get some. Be happy with what you can get, be it all day, just lunchtime, or waiting for the weekend.

I am happy now. But the office seems a strange, wrong place to be. There are waves out there!

Never enough, until next time.

what a difference!

Had a surf at Fistral. It was about 2-3ft on the push. Wore the 3/2 but with hood, but didn't need hood as it was smaller than I thought. And weak! Argh. I caught more on Saturday in the howling winds (had loads at the Bay)! The waves were so backing off, doubling up and weak I hardly caught a thing :-( and stuffed up the only decent one I did get on. One step forward…

But it was blinding sunlight, still not cold, few people out (including someone who bust a big air, really impressive) and clean waves. Try again tomorrow! It was really beautiful out there but I am feeling somehow a little out of step with the ocean. I think it's how damn dark it is — I get up in the dark and go home in the dark. Ah well, the nights draw out from 21st.

Waves for the rest of the week so I've plenty of time to make up for my awfulness!

50 year storm

It's about 4ft at Towan, as shown (proper camera is broken. Again). I watched for half an hour, saw one bottom turn and one wave that didn't close out. I can't go on a mission today so I'll only get wet from the rain. But I did have a good surf at 2ft Great Western, it actually peeled and I got loads of waves.

Maybe tomorrow? We shall see. It's awful weather to everyone but ducks, and surfers. Good luck to my tribe.

bang

The surf's picked up this week, sure, but so has the wind…the charts are showing the biggest low for a long long time, poised to smack into us any time now. I want to go home and surf some of those secret sheltered spots, but I'm going to have to be content with a searching mission in Cornwall. Went for a little surf lunchtime at Whoopsies on Wednesday but it was rubbish and I was rubbish - one left! Oh well…

I Surf, I Fly

This sticker is to point out to the US government how many surfers (and Surfrider Foundation supporters) are voters. Strikes me we should have an I Surf, I Fly one and start sticking it in airports - on BA checkin desks, for instance. Bonus points for getting on the side of a plane, or a baggage handler's truck.

BA bans surfboards - sign petition

Save the Dolphins

I'm sorry, I know this is a hideous picture. I can't look at the sites for long as I get too upset so I won't tell you I'm the most informed protester but it's so wrong. Please join Rasta's petition and check out Save Japan Dolphins

belen

Nice little surf at Fistral, but wish had gone in this morning when it was 3ft. Need proper waves, and lots of them, if am to be ready to surf reef. Still happy as in my 3/2 and loving the quad.

Am doing NaNoWriMo again, so probably won't be posting a lot. If I am, I'm procrastinating. The book is about surfing - surprise!

famous anyway

Well, I haven't wanted to update for a couple of days because I wanted to leave the post that Drift mag linked to on top ;-). It seems my little brother is not the sole reader of my ramblings! (Aside: how I would love to write for Drift.)

Small clean surfing lunchtimes all week, lovely. Had a nice session at Whoopsadasies (no, not its real name) and one yesterday at Fistral which was rather frustrating. But the water's still warm and God, how I love autumn.

Saved a hedgehog from certain squashing as well, so I think my karma bank is looking good. It needs to, everything else is a bit shabbby…(violins).

long long right

Had a great surf at Fistral, three foot or so, pretty clean. One long left and one stuuuuupidly long right - very happy. Wish didn't have to get out to go back to work!! Not seen waves of any size since I broke my schnozz, good to get back into it. Long sleep and back out there tomorrow. Sorry Ali, wedding makeup lesson is off…

Radio Star

Anyone who knows me knows I hate, hate, hate talking on the phone, and that I'm quite shy. I used to be unable to walk into a shop to buy something because then I'd have to speak to the person on the till... I've made some leaps since then but I'll always avoid the spotlight. So having to do a phone interview on BBC Radio talking about surfing wasn't high on my list of must-dos this week, but I'm kind of stoked I stepped up to the challenge. I think I did okay. I don't know really, because I can't bear to listen to it again. However, some sliver of pride made me AudioHijack it, and if you want a good laugh, have a listen. (Also, I didn't want to be outdone by little sister in the exposure stakes - see the float. Ahem. I think I was outdone. I've never seen such exposure!)

(There's no video, just audio - this is just the only way we could figure out how to compress the audio without faffing!)

I think I need a surf lesson

One of the shots from the Surf's Up Surf School calendar, Nude Dudes. What a fucking brilliant idea.

long long lunch breaks

Saw one guy at Fistral this evening who eptomised good surfing for me - everything done with casual intent. No wasted movements, perfect timing, grace and reading the wave and going with it, not trying to force anything. That's really good surfing. Nothing flashy, though that's great to watch as well. Just flow, and confidence. I was too far away, but I bet he was hot. ;-)

Had myself a 2-1/2 hour lunchbreak. Should have pushed myself into more size, but bay was nice, clean, sunny, peaky even and I had lots of 2ft rides, so leave the challenge for another day, I'm happy. I'm fit enough to have a go sometime this weekend. Whoopsadasies tomorrow…