two sweet seshs

It's more like autumn than summer at the moment, with showers and coolness - plus waves!

Last week's session was a good one - I only caught one wave, but that place has a habit of always teaching me something new. I wasn't confident still, because of time out of the water and lack of punchy swell. But I got one good one (despite a snaking-ish from a sponger) and didn't back off waves so…that's all right. Lovely swell, few good surfers but room enough, and loved being in the water.

Nothing since, until yesterday when a clean 3ft session was had at Tolcarne after work. Due to wanting to actually catch some waves this time I passed on the clean a-frames at last session's spot. And catch some I did. Tolcarne just closes out but I had a couple of decent lefts where I was cutting back and doing more drawn-out turns, which is the aim of the game at the moment. I also took off on two stupidly steep closeouts and made them, and I rode my last wave all the way in, which always feels good.

Not looking great today, but I'll probably go out later just to keep the fitness going…

Pictures to come when I find the damn camera lead…

Boardmasters circus

Well, apart from a shite grovelly few waves on the fish at Porthtowan on Sat morning, I've not been in the surf. However, today it's four feet and clean at Fistral, so I'm off to the local's spot, whoops can't tell you the name, at lunchtime when the tide will be perfect. As most of my colleagues think the Boardmasters is an excellent excuse to not be in the office (100th issue deadline notwithstanding) I am going to follow their lead. I may have forgotten to bring my waterproof watch.

sweet summer swell

This was Fistral yesterday morning, very sweet, wished I'd got up earlier! But Weds was a bit bigger, a bit much for my first surf back (esp with high tide and ridiculous crowds), and I thought it was picking up. Shoulda got up!


So nice.

As the van's door has all but fallen off and my bike's braked have seized onto the rims I was walking to work with the S4 (also dinged, now fixed). Hopped a lift with David to north Fistral at lunchtime to do battle with the lunchy crowd. Every wave had someone on it whether I was on the peak or trying for the sneakers. Caught one crap one. Boo. Sunshine was amazing though.

Cancelled the Cornwall Surfer Girls meeting to surf in the evening. Took furtle down the beach to play stone and sussed the emptiest peak. I don't care about the best, I need the emptiest. There's always one the sheep aren't on. Hopped in and stayed out ages, got back in tune with the board and loved it. I love that board. Now I'm thinking about different fins though! I need a bit more drive, I can't stamp on it and force it as much with those little grom fins. Haha I'm such an expert now. But in little waves, unless I'm fully in tune and popped up bang in the right place, I'm not booting it and feeling in sync. Obv partly my fault, but if the fins could help…will sell the old ones as well, defo, don't want two set the fucking same and they're not even proper quad fins anyway, I wanna try the ones made for the board. Will test drive first obvs…
but yeah sell those fins, they cost a fortune they did. Fair enouugh if i break one

I got loads of waves including a couple of good ones where I was driving down the line, racing to stay up with the wave and did make it. Also one re-entry, probably looked pants but I enjoyed it. A lot.

There were some fat high tide ones that were hard to get onto and faded as soon as you'd taken off. I was taking off then doing that weaving, pushing things that gets you on waves, or gets the good surfers on waves, little s-turns down the face to get some speed. I love the feeling of doing that and presto! It really works too.

Yeah so one righthander that was really good actually, though I wasn't totally in tune and stylin' on it like I want to be more. But they were all good waves, I'm not such a bad surfer…

Was warm this morning, lovely water, just three of us for quite a while. Another girl who was good but why the boots? Abs does well, straight up and backside angled takeoff, ain't nobody told her how she just gets it. I want her to try Penny, she doesn't need 6'8" of corky batteredness.

Well tired now. Glad to get back in properly, apart from a few tiny wave surfs I've been out for six weeks! And the surf session with Krisha for Cornwall Surfer Girls which went on ITV Westcountry…but they only showed one wave of me…

quick paddle

A quick heads-up to Lori, who writes about surfing at The Surfing Village. I love finding new blogs, but this time someone found me! And I thought it was just my brother who read my rubbish!

Although I am supposed to be out of the water for another month, I went for a paddle on Sunday just to get in the ocean. Big sigh of relief! All those silly land based things that had grown in importance in my mind were reduced once more to their proper place in the world. Behind surfing, that is.

I paddled from the harbour to Great Western, which ain't that far. Caught a few waves (naughty, but I needed them! And they were sweet) then paddled back much happier.

dry

Well, it's been just over two weeks out of the water and I'm SO DRY. I miss being in the ocean…but once this mad swell has died down I'll get in just for a paddle. No surfing for about another month though. I am worried that my fitness will vanish (especially with all the summer partying going on) so I have to get back on it after Glasto.

A cool thing:

Your Vitality type is... Your dominant Vitality type is Roots “Some see me as shy but I have hidden depths.” Roots people are: Artistic * sensitive * practical * idealistic * patient * structured * tenacious * profound thinkers * persistent * good at detail Element: Earth. You’re a Roots type… thoughtful Roots people are often creative and artistic. Think of the roots of a tree, how far they spread and how they provide strong foundations, structure and stability. You share many of those characteristics; you’re full of profound and far reaching thoughts. Capable of seeing through superficial reasons for things, you seek out the true cause and connections instead. You love silence and solitude and your interior world is of tremendous importance as you find great pleasure in reflection. You’re not a socialite but you are extremely loyal to the friends you do have. However, too much reflection can make others see you as daydreamer, your strong connection to the interior world can leave you easily hurt by others. You have a tendency towards stubbornness and you can become pessimistic which leads to worry. You may often experience insomnia as you lie awake brooding on the day and you can be inclined to depression. Roots people rebalance with uplifting herbs and by indulging their creative side. Life Coaching or counselling can help you focus on the positive. They optimise their Vitality by creating a peaceful environment where their efforts are appreciated and they are free to reflect and create.

out of the water

Had a good surf last Thursday with a couple of colleagues at Whoopsadasies…low tide, quite heavy, sand dredging three footers. Some barrels even (not with me in them). Took the 6'1" out and had a few steep drops but only found one wall really. Still, it was nice to be out in something more challenging than tiny. It dropped for the weekend and I had a small frustrating one on the fat fish, lots of people out at Godrevy and very small waves. Last surf for a couple of months…

Saving grace for that last surf was a cheeky baby seal who popped up to take a look at me then swam under my board and did a little belly roll out the other side. He then popped up to see if I was still watching, blew some spray and swam off. Lovely! Here's a cute one.

Let's hope there are no more strandings of our wonderful marine life :-(

Surfstock!!!

Tickets are now on sale for Surfstock, 29-30 August at St Agnes. The lineup includes The Gossip, Supergrass, the Go! Team and The Likes with 60+ acts on four stages. There’s also the Cult Energy Drink Tag Team Surf Challenge and Tow-At Challenge with a £10,000 prize purse (the largest in the UK). This year’s festival also includes the first annual Surfstock H30 British Big Wave Awards in association with CARVE magazine, with six categories and £3500 prize money. Surfstock ticket holders will vote for the Surfer Of The Year and Photo Of The Year. Tickets and more info available from www.surfstock.co.uk at £80 (including two nights camping). Kids under 14 go free! To enter the Tag Team Challenge, register your team of four as soon as possible: crewchallenge@surfstock.co.uk.

fat fish

The SurfGirl board test was no fun for me, didn't even get in the water! But we got good stuff. Then I tried out an Escape 6'3" quad fish, and oh my. I did fall in love properly in tiny Fistral waves traded with the editor. Then I took it to perfect Penhale - quite small and high tide and a few too many hassling, but the board flew and I flew where others were struggling. One perfect wave where I went miles at speed and felt so in tune. A deal was struck and the little fatty is mine! Overdraft what?

Since then I've been out on it once and I hate hate hate summertime Fistral. Do NOT just sit there in my way like the lump of clueless girl on pink board that you are! Move when someone's on a wave and you're in the way! It makes me ashamed of girl surfers. Grr.

Nice waves yesterday and blew the deadlines to surf Whoopsadasies at about 3ft and quite heavy actually…had three steep drop to closeout waves, ah well…it was just nice to get back into it. Possibly the last surf for a couple of months now…

Gay Bay

Had one session last week at 2-3ft Fistral, really peaky and quite clean but shifting all over the place. Two good rights, tore them apart (haha). Then today (two foot closeout Gay Bay) I couldn't catch anything and couldn't be bothered, especially with evils off some weirdo for (I presume) being 'in the way' of another guy when I wasn't.

It's supposed to go nice tomorrow i.e. offshore, clean, three feet and sunny, so I guess I'll try again then. People are abandoning the hoods and gloves, and some even the boots. I was still cold though. I dream of Australia, or Costa Rica (reading Captain Zero again).

Like a lion

Here's the bay this morning…not much going on surf wise (a few out) but I think I will go for a paddle anyway, just for the exercise. Those rowers made me feel lazy!

It's been absolutely dire this past week. Last Thursday's lovely morning surf, where I stayed in far too long and had the best left in a long time (several good strong turns and cutting back) is but a lovely memory. April really has come in like a lion, so much wind and rain, but there's not much swell on the horizon. I need some waves!

Quick, the wind dropped!

Two surfs in one day! I just felt like it, it wasn't that the surf was amazing. Lunchtime session at Tolcarne/GW with Joe from work. Couple of feet, found one nice left, one nice right spoilt by a gawking sponger and a few okay ones which pretty much closed out. The wind had dropped and the sun was out. After work Fistral looked nicer so I ran down for about half an hour before it got dark. Stokesy, Mitch Corbett and Welsh Ben were out there with Brad Kemp snapping, far too much talent for me to surf near so I stayed in the middle, but I got one good right which was all I wanted. Not much hope for the weekend as it's getting stormy again.

Book review: Return By Water, Kimball Taylor

It's subtitled Surf Stories and Adventures — there's no telling what's fiction and what's based on fact; I think it's mostly fact, snippets of the story behind the story which eventually made it into Surfer or whatever publication sent him across the world. Some good, some seemed a little pointless/unfinished, but his style is compelling. It made me want to travel and see this side of the surfing lifestyle — the constant journeying, new cultures, perceptions and discoveries, so far from the cold, inconsistent, crowded UK… 7/10

storms leave surf

Storms are over, and there's surf!

It was big and crumbly at Fistral this morning, but surfable. The wind's dropped, it's the most miserable rainy grey day you've ever seen, but there are 2-3ft waves (yeah, and lots of closeouts) in the Bay.

I should be on it! But I left my gear at home. I didn't think it'd be any good…that'll teach me.

I didn't even bring my camera with me today. Other things are getting in the way, but I'll surf tomorrow.



Here's a pretty pink flower from St Mawgan churchyard, taken last weekend.

It's not rocket science

The MOD have had enough of surfers at a certain break not so far from Bournemouth ignoring them and are reputed to be closing all access to the break. The locals have had enough of people blocking access and speeding through the village as well.

It's not exactly a secret spot, thanks to the likes of Wannasurf and many of the guidebooks, but the real problem is ignorance. The local crew have been quietly enjoying (and respecting) the place for years. Everyone should do the same, whether they're going to the middle of nowhere through a firing range or rocking up at Fistral.

When faced with a classic yet fickle spot doing its thing, where's the sense of awe and respect gone?


Magic Seaweed discussion (the usual ranting)

The Bay comes good

Nice one. At last!

Joe was well up for it as well, we all (Al too) went to check Whoopsadasies. No-one out, quite clean but a little out of control. So hard to tell from the top of the cliff! We suited up. As I was pulling my hood on the mother of all sets rolled in; the boys didn't see it and paddled straight out. I was a bit behind them. They stopped and started to take little inside ones (head high). I was like, boys, you have not paddled all the way out. As I got to the bottom of the steps a proper set came in and they were inside. I just didn't fancy the paddleout and instead climbed back up those bloody steps!

Went to Great Western instead. Paddled straight out onto a nice peak with a group of northerner 18-year-olds on it, all hooting at closeouts and enjoying the warmer water no doubt. I could tell they're not locals 'cos one smiled and said hello to me! (Sad but true.)

Got quite a few straighanders, two nice lefts where I went along for a little bit with this super steep wall next to my back, just waiting for it to close out but not minding really. Almost pulled into the second one that did that, but hesitated just a touch too long to do it. Next time.

What makes me happy is I managed to get one nice right and work it properly with a few turns. It wasn't amazing but I took off properly, stayed one, bottom and top turned and kept with the power pocket. Was really nice. I also got a pretty long left where I had to spend most of the time going around people! But was still happy with what I did with it.

It was only like two foot out there, but there were some peeling ones, especially earlier on. The later it got the more it closed out as low tide approached. We all took a few really good razor-sharp lip closeouts to the legs and head…several of the boys seemed more excited by being faced with a three foot cylinder about to detonate a foot in front of them than the actual rideable waves. I suppose that's a good way to look at it. There was certainly nothing to be worried about, you only get a quick tumble. (Story of…etc.)

So anyway, I got one great wave and I feel like my trip away (the hassle continues) wasn't wasted, that I did get somewhere. I'm definitely fitter, and must carry on with surfing, swimming, yoga, biking, walking…I do loads actually!

I had the song 'I'm in over my head' playing over and over in the water - not good! I had to forcibly change it to 'I wanna be a rock star'! Talk about talking myself out of surfing! I think I would have been in over my head, Joe said it was quite big and he's been dripping water ever since coming back. I just didn't fancy the struggle, I needed waves to show me that I can bloody surf!

Saturday swell pulse

Woke early and ready to get on it for the predicted pulse of swell. Still offshore and calm. Drove to Porthtowan and was there by 7.30ish. Freezing. Swift change into horrible heavy rubbery suit. I can't move in that bloody thing! Steve turned up smoking a fag.

We paddled out and I proceeded to be an arse. Two waves he called me into, the second was just a closeout anyway but the first was sweet! But I thought it was closing out on me so puled back. It was about 3ft out there, clean and peeling. A crowd of about ten all in all, it was okay at first just a few, then too many for the one peak. One other girl which was good to see. Steve had some nice ones but his twinny skipped out on at least one I saw. Oh, the waves were so nice! But all I managed to catch was three straighthanders before I had to admit that I couldn't feel my feet, my neck was killing me and I was getting nowhere fast. It was mostly the wetsuit and partly the crowd, I hate both. I know I can surf better than that, I have been doing so for the last two weeks, consistently. I have to get used to the cold again, and I have to not fuck about. Honestly. It was a lovely day, bit hazy but only a gentle offshore and the sun peeked out and the water was glassy. The boogers were loving it, pulling into closeout shorebreaks as I got out. It dropped really, really fast, but that one bank in front of the cliffs at the north end was good.

So I hopped out and changed, had a hot chocolate with mint, sat on the wall and threw sticks for Furtle. Love my van.

sunshine

Back to reality! It's warm for February, which at least means I'm not shivering away and wishing myself back in the Caribbean. Small 2-3ft clean, sunny, offshore waves at Fistral today and I got a few in at lunchtime, a nice welcome home. The cold doesn't bother me so much as the wetsuit, which feels heavy and stinky after boardies. I think a 4/3 next time I buy a suit! Lovely peeling waves today…hope there's more of that to come.

Pictured is the cutest puppydog we wanted to take home from Playa Grande after one of his pack chewed on his little head. Covered in fleas and really skinny, but a lovely nature. I hope he's okay.

Proof I can surf!

Okay, it's nothing radical, but here's me at Encuentro (I think) in the Dominican Republic, proof at last that I'm not totally shit.

Dominican Republic - tally

2 x egg bruises (fins)
1 x fin cut
3 x bad wax rubs
10 x urchin spines
1 x aching neck
2 x burnt cheeks
1 x picture of me actually surfing (1 x wipeout as well)
20 x ish waves today

1 x happy surfer girl

skip skip skip (limp)

Dominican Republic Day 1

Mostly going to post on the SurfGirl blog as I am actually supposed to be here for work ;-) but will also update here because I'm just too excited to shut up!

It is all the cliches of paradise here, the surf's not ace yet but it will be. Had two 2-3ft surfs in boardies today, tired as now. Girls are all cool, place is amazing, it's warm...I hadn't realised how much I've been struggling in the winter waves of Cornwall! Had two rubbish small Bay surfs at the weekend, bored, crowded, freezing, then come here and my first wave is better than anything I've had in ages. Had three or four that I was so pleased with actually.

Also had a local bust an air right in front of me and his board landed on my nose. Eek! Hurt, saw stars, but it's not broken again at least. He was very apologetic, I think he just meant to make the point I was in his way. I couldn't really help it, but I know you gotta really stay out of the localss way! Thing is, there was no-one out either time we paddled out, I think the boys were just super curious to see 7 surfer girls and had to come take a look.

They girls are all better than me, obvs, which is going to make me work hard! I want to catch a barrel, and I will, I'm determined.

Hmm, time for a beer.

still windy...

Searching for surf saturday. Bay looked ho hum. Got a lift with Laura and Josh up to Harlyn, which was moslty closing out and so so rammed with students. So we went looking. Checked out a reef, a little sheltered bay, the Doom Bar and had a nice curried pasty in Padstow, which is so gorgeous.

Ended up going home again as tide got too high for Harlyn on the second check. Saw a surfer girl I vaguely know in the carpark, she said hi to Josh, blatantly I'm with him (well, not like that obvs), I said hi and she completely ignored me. Stood there for a little, can never quite believe what a bitch she is, then carried on back to car. Honestly. Why be so rude?

So went for a nap then hopped in at Great Western. Hell of a paddle out. More than one boy looked surprised when I made it out. Fucking determined. Think I did well considering being ill all week but it was hard work, 3ft plus and actually quite powerful. Ie I got my arse kicked a few times! One 4ft barrel hit me square, not fun, but it's never as bad as france so…and yes, I did say barrel, and in the bay! Saw one guy get in, but not out of one. I had one nice left and another not great one. Not an ace session by any means, but it was only about an hour.

I read something on Surferbrat about how much patience surfing in winter takes. Too right. More searching, more waiting, more battling.

surfing is dangerous!

Gosh, better cut down on the elevator-ing as well.



From the superlative XKCD.com, via P

fixed

Whatever the hell was wrong with my surfing seems to have fixed itself! The last three surfs have been great. One at dawn on my own at North Fistral on 22nd Dec, one at Watergate a week or so ago, and yesterday at Tolcarne where I found the longest left I've had in ages as well as a really good right. Happy!

Camera seems to have fixed itself (it got over its hangover...) so I will start taking it down the beach again.

Japan are up to their shit again.

My trip to the Dominican Republic is coming up really soon. My passport isn't back, I haven't had my jabs, I have no reef boots - I'm totally disorganised. I guess it's because I can't quite belive I'm really going somewhere so amazing!

no surf

Nuts that Occy's retiring! But a good excuse for a fun micro-site.

Been no surf up here in West Wales so far...just keep hoping!

let me out

Can't wait to get out of the office and go home! Hoping there will be some small swell around in West Wales but not really couting on it...nothing here now and it's absolutely icy. I did have a Saturday surf and caught three okay ones, but now the rest is definitely doing me good.

Been thinking a lot about plastic, and woke up with an idea. Then I saw this and sighed. Unfortunately it's obvious to anyone who's been on a beach in the last few years that this is a serious problem. I might have to do something about it!

It's just one of a few things taking up my thoughts though, so we shall see. At the moment I'm not feeling very inspired because endless data entry numbs my brain :-(

break

Two surfs and not a wave caught, and perfect conditions. No idea what's going on but I'll try again tomorrow then have a rest. Clearly there are people a lot worse off than me etc. etc. but still, I'm not very happy.

never enough

Ahhhhhhhhhh I know I'm lucky to get to surf at lunchtime but AN HOUR IS NOT ENOUGH! Not when it's blue sky, light winds, so many places to choose from, so few surfers in the crispy cold water, clean lines at all the spots, two foot to double overhead, shall I go eek or play it safe, why is there no-one in at Whoopsadowndasies, my favourite, why do I have to end up in the Bay again? Why is my first wave always the best - ah racing the wall and two clean lazyily drawn easy easy turns, like I actually know what I'm doing out here. A few straighthanders, I give those little dragons a talking to. Hot blonde boy and hot Irish boy start chatting in the lulls, always nice to have something to, er, spectate on…

Then a little visit from that nice Mole, looking like he's been hidden underground for a while with that facial growth! Telling us the Cribber may be 10ft tomorrow and there might be some tow action to watch, feast your eyes.

The whole coast is stoked, racing time and tides to get some. Be happy with what you can get, be it all day, just lunchtime, or waiting for the weekend.

I am happy now. But the office seems a strange, wrong place to be. There are waves out there!

Never enough, until next time.

what a difference!

Had a surf at Fistral. It was about 2-3ft on the push. Wore the 3/2 but with hood, but didn't need hood as it was smaller than I thought. And weak! Argh. I caught more on Saturday in the howling winds (had loads at the Bay)! The waves were so backing off, doubling up and weak I hardly caught a thing :-( and stuffed up the only decent one I did get on. One step forward…

But it was blinding sunlight, still not cold, few people out (including someone who bust a big air, really impressive) and clean waves. Try again tomorrow! It was really beautiful out there but I am feeling somehow a little out of step with the ocean. I think it's how damn dark it is — I get up in the dark and go home in the dark. Ah well, the nights draw out from 21st.

Waves for the rest of the week so I've plenty of time to make up for my awfulness!

50 year storm

It's about 4ft at Towan, as shown (proper camera is broken. Again). I watched for half an hour, saw one bottom turn and one wave that didn't close out. I can't go on a mission today so I'll only get wet from the rain. But I did have a good surf at 2ft Great Western, it actually peeled and I got loads of waves.

Maybe tomorrow? We shall see. It's awful weather to everyone but ducks, and surfers. Good luck to my tribe.

bang

The surf's picked up this week, sure, but so has the wind…the charts are showing the biggest low for a long long time, poised to smack into us any time now. I want to go home and surf some of those secret sheltered spots, but I'm going to have to be content with a searching mission in Cornwall. Went for a little surf lunchtime at Whoopsies on Wednesday but it was rubbish and I was rubbish - one left! Oh well…

I Surf, I Fly

This sticker is to point out to the US government how many surfers (and Surfrider Foundation supporters) are voters. Strikes me we should have an I Surf, I Fly one and start sticking it in airports - on BA checkin desks, for instance. Bonus points for getting on the side of a plane, or a baggage handler's truck.

BA bans surfboards - sign petition

Save the Dolphins

I'm sorry, I know this is a hideous picture. I can't look at the sites for long as I get too upset so I won't tell you I'm the most informed protester but it's so wrong. Please join Rasta's petition and check out Save Japan Dolphins

belen

Nice little surf at Fistral, but wish had gone in this morning when it was 3ft. Need proper waves, and lots of them, if am to be ready to surf reef. Still happy as in my 3/2 and loving the quad.

Am doing NaNoWriMo again, so probably won't be posting a lot. If I am, I'm procrastinating. The book is about surfing - surprise!

famous anyway

Well, I haven't wanted to update for a couple of days because I wanted to leave the post that Drift mag linked to on top ;-). It seems my little brother is not the sole reader of my ramblings! (Aside: how I would love to write for Drift.)

Small clean surfing lunchtimes all week, lovely. Had a nice session at Whoopsadasies (no, not its real name) and one yesterday at Fistral which was rather frustrating. But the water's still warm and God, how I love autumn.

Saved a hedgehog from certain squashing as well, so I think my karma bank is looking good. It needs to, everything else is a bit shabbby…(violins).

long long right

Had a great surf at Fistral, three foot or so, pretty clean. One long left and one stuuuuupidly long right - very happy. Wish didn't have to get out to go back to work!! Not seen waves of any size since I broke my schnozz, good to get back into it. Long sleep and back out there tomorrow. Sorry Ali, wedding makeup lesson is off…

Radio Star

Anyone who knows me knows I hate, hate, hate talking on the phone, and that I'm quite shy. I used to be unable to walk into a shop to buy something because then I'd have to speak to the person on the till... I've made some leaps since then but I'll always avoid the spotlight. So having to do a phone interview on BBC Radio talking about surfing wasn't high on my list of must-dos this week, but I'm kind of stoked I stepped up to the challenge. I think I did okay. I don't know really, because I can't bear to listen to it again. However, some sliver of pride made me AudioHijack it, and if you want a good laugh, have a listen. (Also, I didn't want to be outdone by little sister in the exposure stakes - see the float. Ahem. I think I was outdone. I've never seen such exposure!)

(There's no video, just audio - this is just the only way we could figure out how to compress the audio without faffing!)

I think I need a surf lesson

One of the shots from the Surf's Up Surf School calendar, Nude Dudes. What a fucking brilliant idea.

long long lunch breaks

Saw one guy at Fistral this evening who eptomised good surfing for me - everything done with casual intent. No wasted movements, perfect timing, grace and reading the wave and going with it, not trying to force anything. That's really good surfing. Nothing flashy, though that's great to watch as well. Just flow, and confidence. I was too far away, but I bet he was hot. ;-)

Had myself a 2-1/2 hour lunchbreak. Should have pushed myself into more size, but bay was nice, clean, sunny, peaky even and I had lots of 2ft rides, so leave the challenge for another day, I'm happy. I'm fit enough to have a go sometime this weekend. Whoopsadasies tomorrow…

Surf on the way

Furk. I hope I can cope with the first decent waves I've seen since I got a kicking in France last summer!!

marshmallows and folded felt

or, water, clouds and light at sunset

popeth ya iawn

Yes, a much better surf! It was just a bad session…

I seem to always know when an outside set is coming. I get a feeling, before anyone else. It always makes me think of Layne Beachley; I'm not sure why. I must have read something about her reading of the ocean, and it should be good the length of time she's been surfing. I think I read it pretty well. Sometimes I'm too far out for said outside set. In bigger waves, that's a good thing, because the outside sets so often seem to close out, and hard, because they're not hitting the banks the same as the regular sized waves.

Got up about 7.30am (despite disturbed night) quite nervous it'd be big, but it was the same as last night really, 2 maybe 3ft on sets. Clean as a whistle though, lovely. More cloud cover but some light peeping through. There were about 6 on north already, more scattered at south so I kept Golf Terrace as my reference point and had a smaller peak to myself for half an hour. Then in they crept…but by then it was MY peak thank you very much and it didn't get all that crowded anyway.

One wave I was just going along and thought, if I go for speed will it just bog. Then I realised I can trust this board, I really can, and went for it and it flies. It's so fucking responsive it's ridiculous.

So I got lots of waves, one or two to make me smile and say yes, that's it! I think I was tired and stressed more than I thought yesterday…Arms hurt now, tired again, think I'll have a nap while the house is quiet. I can surf, and I got loads and surfed them as well as I could. My fitness is an issue, definitely. I'm too tempted to take ones that are perfect when I've only just had one and am in no state to paddle for another! It'll come in time. As the nights get darker I'l swim instead of surf, plus trampet and yoga and good healthy food.

2ft clean; nothing

Driving off for a camping and surfing weekend, drive shaft broke, all day spent waiting for tow trucks etc. Joy.

Ben said surf had picked up so I swapped the 6'4" for the S4 and went down about 6. Surfed until dark and caught…jack shit. Absolutely nothing. Just one of those sessions. I wasn't settled or calm or relaxed at all, and the more I missed the more I got upset. Quite quickly I sort of said well, it's one of those sessions, so fuck it, I'll enjoy the autumn light (so amazing in Cornwall and Wales) and see if I get one, and if not, not. But I never get NONE these days! Most sessions I'm one a set at least.

The boys out there were a little offputting. I paddled wide of the middle peak to have some space (north was totally stupid) but still, too many boys who think snaking you and going deeper is okay. I'm not ever intimidated by that shit - so you're better than I am? Not by fucking much you're not, and I'm still entitled to waves. But of course, if they see you're not catching any, they think they can go for ones you're obviously in the spot and going for. Not blaming them like at C------, but boy it's annoying to have them all over you (ha, I wish eh). Also my fitness precludes me from paddling around like a grom to go for every hump. Also yes, it does annoy me to look like a kook who's just bought a shithot board to look good. I can surf! Honest!

The water was amazing, silk and clean and just the right temperature. I'll get up early tomorrow to try to avoid the hassle and just get the focus right, chill with it…

I Hate Longboards and Hasslers

[warning: HUGE rant and lots of CAPS]

I went surfing with Laura and Josh (but lost them didn't see them once) Abs (who didn't like the crowd and size) and Kirsty (who I lost after a bit). We went C------ to try to avoid the crowds. I think it was a little less crowded than Fistral but FUCK ME the vibe was horrible.

The most beautiful evening and an absolutely stunning sunset. Gorgeous, perfect for me (unfit as I am) three foot waves, lefts and rights, plenty of peaks, quite clean. Love love love C------ walls.

HATE HATE HATE longboarder wave hogs and rude surfers. The problem with C------ is that it's no quiet spot like when I first came down with the boys - every fucker's onto it, and the real nub of it is that they're all competent surfers up to rippers. Now, I don't go in either corner ever, because it's a given you have to hassle if you want to sit on the best peak. BUT I do NOT expect to be snaked, run over, bailed in front of (fucking logs) and watch people be assholes to each other. I heard about aggro and I saw it myself. Boys, get a fucking LIFE.

By the time I got out, three okay waves under my belt (courtesy of the best board there ever was, nothing to do with me) I was proper angry. Longboarders were just taking every wave they could from the outside, meaning the rest had to pick off the leftovers, and they were hassling like mad. I ended up having to surf like I don't like (paddling for a wave in the hope someone will miss it, thus putting them off, or ditto by sitting too close to them etc.) just to get a few shitty ones. You don't need to go for every sodding wave boys!!

I have surfed D-bah with TWICE the amount of people all of a better standard than me and caught more waves, because people know how to surf a crowd and still be polite and actually ENJOY their surfing, not just be cocks and end up missing out on essential elements of surfing — waves shared, traded, watched, learned from, sunsets etc. I bet half those boys didn't even notice the sun throwing a blaze behind the dunes and headland.

COCKS.

This weekend don't call me, I'll be out of signal range looking for a FUN place to surf.


'Breaking out'

Also, it's banned books week:
To limit the press is to insult a nation; to prohibit reading of certain books is to declare the inhabitants to be either fools or slaves. - Claude-Adrien Helvetius, 1715 - 1771

Some of my favourites (like Deenie), were banned. Silly idea.

late evening

Surfed yesterday with the girls, which chilled me out even though I only got one wave really. Surf wasn't great and it's getting dark really quickly. As the photos show, today it's picked up but it's quite messy. I'll be happy to go in after work. Surf on the way for the weekend but I've family stuff I'm glad to be doing.

We have a new housemate, Ben, another Saffa surfer. Still a houseful of surfers, good!

morning

I Hate Swell Boards

Nice small lunchtime surf. You know, I think I might just be super unfit not actually ill. Mind you, I always think that until I have a bad day/week.

Rob, David and Joe and me on North peak; they were on swellys but I can't paddle the damn things — I really can't. There should be girly swell boards made, not quite so bastarding wide. They are my whole armspan, leaving only my wrists and hands over the side. I swapped with Joe for a bit but caught nothing.

Anyway it wasn't as clean as yesterday evening and it was a tad smaller, but I caught four or so that were okay. Do love the S4! And it was great to get out of the office and have some fun in the sun. Some days I feel like I was born to just surf.

dominican republic??

Got to leave at 5 last night, good one. I was so fucking tired, but it was clean 2ft so I had to!

My new suit is AMAZING warm, really fits well. Didn't get cramp or feel cold at all. Should get at least another month out of it!

The board is also amazing, I love it. The waves were so small, but as soon as I was up it was off, it's just so much faster than the other one. It loves to turn. You pull it towards you with the leash and it skips up then sideways ready to be grabbed - not like a thruster does, so that must be the 4 fins.

Surfed loads of lefts on the middle peak. Stayed away from north with the logs and shredders, way too many people. Had a few pretty good ones as well. I can surf okay, but Christ my fitness…I'd take a wave, paddle back (it takes about 2 minutes) then be unable to take a wave for another minutes. Usually on a small swell I'd get 2 waves in a set. Oh dear. Wish inhalers were waterproof. Got really tired after an hour - used to surf for three in much bigger waves.

There's a possibility that I could be sent to the Dominican Republic as writer for a SurfGirl trip!!! I have to research it. It'll be the youngsters, which is okay but not ideal. But I would not complain. Oh no.

My Dad is ill, so prayers and the best wave go to him :-(

weird day

I lost my USB bracelet on the way to work :'-( so i spent an hour wandering around (puffing) trying to find it, hence even later for work than the doc's made me