Work for your camp

Workamper
What a great idea - kind of like WWOOFing but for people who live in RVs (campers). Travel around the US and Canada, stop for free in campgrounds etc. and do a bit of work to pay for your space. I want to go away this weekend and can't afford to (plus I'd probably freeze!). I wish someone did this over here!

2ft clean; nothing

Driving off for a camping and surfing weekend, drive shaft broke, all day spent waiting for tow trucks etc. Joy.

Ben said surf had picked up so I swapped the 6'4" for the S4 and went down about 6. Surfed until dark and caught…jack shit. Absolutely nothing. Just one of those sessions. I wasn't settled or calm or relaxed at all, and the more I missed the more I got upset. Quite quickly I sort of said well, it's one of those sessions, so fuck it, I'll enjoy the autumn light (so amazing in Cornwall and Wales) and see if I get one, and if not, not. But I never get NONE these days! Most sessions I'm one a set at least.

The boys out there were a little offputting. I paddled wide of the middle peak to have some space (north was totally stupid) but still, too many boys who think snaking you and going deeper is okay. I'm not ever intimidated by that shit - so you're better than I am? Not by fucking much you're not, and I'm still entitled to waves. But of course, if they see you're not catching any, they think they can go for ones you're obviously in the spot and going for. Not blaming them like at C------, but boy it's annoying to have them all over you (ha, I wish eh). Also my fitness precludes me from paddling around like a grom to go for every hump. Also yes, it does annoy me to look like a kook who's just bought a shithot board to look good. I can surf! Honest!

The water was amazing, silk and clean and just the right temperature. I'll get up early tomorrow to try to avoid the hassle and just get the focus right, chill with it…

beeeeer

I found a bottle-opener ring on the beach the other day, while watching the surf and wishing I could get in it. Will do this weekend. Meanwhile, this vid is in honour of all the beer that will be drunk in Newquay on this Run To The Sun Bank Hol weekend. I am running to Woolacombe area to hide from it (obv I love the idea, just not the chavs that come with it).

Soundtrack to my Friday at work (and it's only 11.30am): "Oi oi oi!" [sirens] "Fuck off!" [screams from fairground ride opposite my office] [dixie horn] "oi oi!" [dwf dwf dwf car stereo] and so on…

anticipation

Common sense is the collection of prejudices acquired by age eighteen.
- Albert Einstein, 1879 - 1955

Had the best surf at Fistral this morning! It looked big by the one person in, but the Bay was small and I’m sick of the Bay it sucks…So despite our looming deadlines I fucked work off and shot down there at 8. Only two others out though a few more joined us; a nice three feet or so (the odd eek! one) with discernable peaks, hardly a breathe of wind and warm sunlight.

Caught a good first wave, a steep left. Couple of others, one nice right which just wasn’t long enough. Hit the bottom really hard on another steep left takeoff and got thrown around. Suit is too warm, might need a 4/3 for this globally-warmed land.

Didn’t want to get out but things to do! Work, lots of! Editor ‘was really impressed’ with a piece of mine, stoked, and I have been given responsibility for another regular piece (not rocket science but I shall stamp myself all over it all right).

Planning sunset cocktails at the Headland Hotel (oh, get us!) then home to change and gather the troops around a large bottle of vodka, one of cider and my offering of Stella. (Rach’s last night out, and she’s getting over-excited already!) I am thinking of a very small brown skirt with boots and t-shirt. Then a little dancy-dance in Walky, Bedouin Soundclash are pretty funky! And lots of chat as everyone who matters will be there! ;-) Abs, Laurz, Rach, the Irie lot, Mark and co…oh and the boss, but she’s seen me druuunk before.

All in all an excellent day so far, and to come. And Slut2 is in the garage being tarted up by VW lovers.