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Jesus, there's no surf in Wales…

Well, all right, there's been a bit. I drove six hours with a van loaded to the roof with my whole life, got to the front and found clean small peaks peeling by the Bica, with just an old friend and one other surfer checking it. A really nice welcome back.

Since then I've been out twice in pretty tiny dire conditions. The S4 is at the superlative Drop In The Ocean, having been repaired (still suffering from Leven last year!). There should be a dribble on Friday…

In the meantime, I've joined the rowing club in order to get my oceanic fix. It seems, in the tradition of water-based clubs/sports/anything involving 2 or more people in Wales, to be a veneer for a drinking club. Excellent.

down not out

Lots of change going on… I am now unemployed, so it's bye bye Cornwall soon and hello Wales…and the world. Hopefully I'll get to see some of it again! It's mad to think I've not been on an actual holiday for nearly five years (yes, magazine surf trips count, if you like stress, hassle, looking after teenagers and standing on the beach with a camera and dictaphone) so I reckon it's time to hit warm waves. What else is redundancy money for?!

Surfed today and it was no quieter than a weekend cos of half term. 2-3ft quite peaky, couldn't catch fuck all. This time of year is so bloody hard for intermediates, especially if your fitness isn't quite all it should be. I kinda give up for a bit. Unless it's sunny clean and nice I won't bother. I know it'll be okay when it's warmer again, always is. Right now, I question the hours and hours I've spent surfing when I can't catch a decent wave in an hour! Grr!

Got a contract to write a how-to surfing book, so I'm stoked on that, and I'm so happy to be going home. Hope the swells continue up there…

cliffs

Friday we did some 'team building' around the Gazzle with Newquay Coasteering. Jumps not very high due to the spring tide, but it was fun. Spot me around 43 seconds-ish, followed by my colleague David.

Been surfing recently, plenty actually, but it's been nowhere special and nothing special, so I've not been updating here. I need a roadtrip/holiday/something. Just surfed the gay Bay, four 3ft drops to straighten out. Yeah it's good practice for other places with big drops, but…it's frustrating to the max when I've got speed to burn.

Might go somewhere where the drops turn into barrels tomorrow, depending on the wind…have to interview WQS no 26 Sarah Beardmore, our new British National Champion. Might as well go for a surf then!

Next Friday heading home for two weeks of Welsh surf and some proper jumps.