surfergrl

Sexy Surfstock

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:00:00 +0000

Can't wait for Surfstock to kick off…

God, I hope the surf's not good that weekend!

Actually, I just hope it doesn't rain, not that that'll stop anyone…

two sweet seshs

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:25:00 +0000

It's more like autumn than summer at the moment, with showers and coolness - plus waves!

Last week's session was a good one - I only caught one wave, but that place has a habit of always teaching me something new. I wasn't confident still, because of time out of the water and lack of punchy swell. But I got one good one (despite a snaking-ish from a sponger) and didn't back off waves so…that's all right. Lovely swell, few good surfers but room enough, and loved being in the water.

Nothing since, until yesterday when a clean 3ft session was had at Tolcarne after work. Due to wanting to actually catch some waves this time I passed on the clean a-frames at last session's spot. And catch some I did. Tolcarne just closes out but I had a couple of decent lefts where I was cutting back and doing more drawn-out turns, which is the aim of the game at the moment. I also took off on two stupidly steep closeouts and made them, and I rode my last wave all the way in, which always feels good.

Not looking great today, but I'll probably go out later just to keep the fitness going…

Pictures to come when I find the damn camera lead…

Boardmasters circus

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 09:37:00 +0000

Well, apart from a shite grovelly few waves on the fish at Porthtowan on Sat morning, I've not been in the surf. However, today it's four feet and clean at Fistral, so I'm off to the local's spot, whoops can't tell you the name, at lunchtime when the tide will be perfect. As most of my colleagues think the Boardmasters is an excellent excuse to not be in the office (100th issue deadline notwithstanding) I am going to follow their lead. I may have forgotten to bring my waterproof watch.

hehehe

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 09:04:00 +0000

sweet summer swell

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 07:46:00 +0000

This was Fistral yesterday morning, very sweet, wished I'd got up earlier! But Weds was a bit bigger, a bit much for my first surf back (esp with high tide and ridiculous crowds), and I thought it was picking up. Shoulda got up!

So nice.

As the van's door has all but fallen off and my bike's braked have seized onto the rims I was walking to work with the S4 (also dinged, now fixed). Hopped a lift with David to north Fistral at lunchtime to do battle with the lunchy crowd. Every wave had someone on it whether I was on the peak or trying for the sneakers. Caught one crap one. Boo. Sunshine was amazing though.

Cancelled the Cornwall Surfer Girls meeting to surf in the evening. Took furtle down the beach to play stone and sussed the emptiest peak. I don't care about the best, I need the emptiest. There's always one the sheep aren't on. Hopped in and stayed out ages, got back in tune with the board and loved it. I love that board. Now I'm thinking about different fins though! I need a bit more drive, I can't stamp on it and force it as much with those little grom fins. Haha I'm such an expert now. But in little waves, unless I'm fully in tune and popped up bang in the right place, I'm not booting it and feeling in sync. Obv partly my fault, but if the fins could help…will sell the old ones as well, defo, don't want two set the fucking same and they're not even proper quad fins anyway, I wanna try the ones made for the board. Will test drive first obvs…
but yeah sell those fins, they cost a fortune they did. Fair enouugh if i break one

I got loads of waves including a couple of good ones where I was driving down the line, racing to stay up with the wave and did make it. Also one re-entry, probably looked pants but I enjoyed it. A lot.

There were some fat high tide ones that were hard to get onto and faded as soon as you'd taken off. I was taking off then doing that weaving, pushing things that gets you on waves, or gets the good surfers on waves, little s-turns down the face to get some speed. I love the feeling of doing that and presto! It really works too.

Yeah so one righthander that was really good actually, though I wasn't totally in tune and stylin' on it like I want to be more. But they were all good waves, I'm not such a bad surfer…

Was warm this morning, lovely water, just three of us for quite a while. Another girl who was good but why the boots? Abs does well, straight up and backside angled takeoff, ain't nobody told her how she just gets it. I want her to try Penny, she doesn't need 6'8" of corky batteredness.

Well tired now. Glad to get back in properly, apart from a few tiny wave surfs I've been out for six weeks! And the surf session with Krisha for Cornwall Surfer Girls which went on ITV Westcountry…but they only showed one wave of me…

quick paddle

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 10:55:00 +0000

A quick heads-up to Lori, who writes about surfing at The Surfing Village. I love finding new blogs, but this time someone found me! And I thought it was just my brother who read my rubbish!

Although I am supposed to be out of the water for another month, I went for a paddle on Sunday just to get in the ocean. Big sigh of relief! All those silly land based things that had grown in importance in my mind were reduced once more to their proper place in the world. Behind surfing, that is.

I paddled from the harbour to Great Western, which ain't that far. Caught a few waves (naughty, but I needed them! And they were sweet) then paddled back much happier.

dry

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:36:00 +0000

Well, it's been just over two weeks out of the water and I'm SO DRY. I miss being in the ocean…but once this mad swell has died down I'll get in just for a paddle. No surfing for about another month though. I am worried that my fitness will vanish (especially with all the summer partying going on) so I have to get back on it after Glasto.

A cool thing:

Your Vitality type is...

Your dominant Vitality type is Roots

“Some see me as shy but I have hidden depths.”

Roots people are:
Artistic * sensitive * practical * idealistic * patient * structured * tenacious * profound thinkers * persistent * good at detail

Element: Earth.
You’re a Roots type… thoughtful Roots people are often creative and artistic. Think of the roots of a tree, how far they spread and how they provide strong foundations, structure and stability. You share many of those characteristics; you’re full of profound and far reaching thoughts. Capable of seeing through superficial reasons for things, you seek out the true cause and connections instead. You love silence and solitude and your interior world is of tremendous importance as you find great pleasure in reflection. You’re not a socialite but you are extremely loyal to the friends you do have.

However, too much reflection can make others see you as daydreamer, your strong connection to the interior world can leave you easily hurt by others. You have a tendency towards stubbornness and you can become pessimistic which leads to worry.
You may often experience insomnia as you lie awake brooding on the day and you can be inclined to depression.

Roots people rebalance with uplifting herbs and by indulging their creative side. Life Coaching or counselling can help you focus on the positive. They optimise their Vitality by creating a peaceful environment where their efforts are appreciated and they are free to reflect and create.

out of the water

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 04:16:00 +0000

Had a good surf last Thursday with a couple of colleagues at Whoopsadasies…low tide, quite heavy, sand dredging three footers. Some barrels even (not with me in them). Took the 6'1" out and had a few steep drops but only found one wall really. Still, it was nice to be out in something more challenging than tiny. It dropped for the weekend and I had a small frustrating one on the fat fish, lots of people out at Godrevy and very small waves. Last surf for a couple of months…

Saving grace for that last surf was a cheeky baby seal who popped up to take a look at me then swam under my board and did a little belly roll out the other side. He then popped up to see if I was still watching, blew some spray and swam off. Lovely! Here's a cute one.

Let's hope there are no more strandings of our wonderful marine life :-(

Surfstock!!!

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Thu, 05 Jun 2008 10:03:00 +0000

Tickets are now on sale for Surfstock, 29-30 August at St Agnes. The lineup includes The Gossip, Supergrass, the Go! Team and The Likes with 60+ acts on four stages. There’s also the Cult Energy Drink Tag Team Surf Challenge and Tow-At Challenge with a £10,000 prize purse (the largest in the UK). This year’s festival also includes the first annual Surfstock H30 British Big Wave Awards in association with CARVE magazine, with six categories and £3500 prize money. Surfstock ticket holders will vote for the Surfer Of The Year and Photo Of The Year. Tickets and more info available from www.surfstock.co.uk at £80 (including two nights camping). Kids under 14 go free! To enter the Tag Team Challenge, register your team of four as soon as possible: crewchallenge@surfstock.co.uk.

fat fish

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Thu, 05 Jun 2008 09:57:00 +0000

The SurfGirl board test was no fun for me, didn't even get in the water! But we got good stuff. Then I tried out an Escape 6'3" quad fish, and oh my. I did fall in love properly in tiny Fistral waves traded with the editor. Then I took it to perfect Penhale - quite small and high tide and a few too many hassling, but the board flew and I flew where others were struggling. One perfect wave where I went miles at speed and felt so in tune. A deal was struck and the little fatty is mine! Overdraft what?

Since then I've been out on it once and I hate hate hate summertime Fistral. Do NOT just sit there in my way like the lump of clueless girl on pink board that you are! Move when someone's on a wave and you're in the way! It makes me ashamed of girl surfers. Grr.

Nice waves yesterday and blew the deadlines to surf Whoopsadasies at about 3ft and quite heavy actually…had three steep drop to closeout waves, ah well…it was just nice to get back into it. Possibly the last surf for a couple of months now…

flatness

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Wed, 21 May 2008 08:55:00 +0000

God, has it seriously been two weeks since I rambled on? Yup. Well, the main reason is that there's been hardly any surf, and the two or three small sessions I've had have been so, SO small! Tested a balsa board out on day at Fistral, it was too small and thin for me but I had a few and wouldn't have minded buying it for £100…damn the overdraft limit.

Since then, a few surfs at Penhale with Abby, small clean sunset surfs in water that is definitely warmer now. I'm getting frustrated wanting the speed and potential of something bigger than two foot, but am getting loads of rides and fitting in more turns. Practicing popups when doing morning yoga is helping, as is swimming a few miles a week.

Flat today but set to pick up a little bit. Hope so, as I've got four brand spanking new boards in the van, all set for a SurfGirl board test. One of them is a quad fish which I think I am already in love with. I need a summer small wave board!

Cornish parties…love summer!

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Fri, 02 May 2008 14:13:00 +0000

The Masked Ball 2008 returns due to popular demand on 20 June in Porthleven. Shit Disco and Friendly Fires (amongst others) will whip up a strictly limited crowd of 500 from six ’til six. Champagne, strawberries and cream and a hog roast will be served, there’s free camping and Mickey Smith will snap you an exclusive free photo on entry. Glamour and masks the order of the day. Tickets are £35 (to include a donation to Love Music Hate Racism) from the usual outlets; check out www.getmaskedup.com.
Also, if you want to enter the Surfstock Challenge (29-31 August) tag team surf event, you need to register your team of four (all from the same beach, please) as soon as possible. With £10k prize money on offer, you best get those entries in to crewchallenge@surfstock.co.uk; there are only 24 team places available. See www.surfstock.co.uk for more info on this premium Cornish festival.

Gay Bay

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Fri, 25 Apr 2008 11:27:00 +0000

Had one session last week at 2-3ft Fistral, really peaky and quite clean but shifting all over the place. Two good rights, tore them apart (haha). Then today (two foot closeout Gay Bay) I couldn't catch anything and couldn't be bothered, especially with evils off some weirdo for (I presume) being 'in the way' of another guy when I wasn't.

It's supposed to go nice tomorrow i.e. offshore, clean, three feet and sunny, so I guess I'll try again then. People are abandoning the hoods and gloves, and some even the boots. I was still cold though. I dream of Australia, or Costa Rica (reading Captain Zero again).

Like a lion

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Sat, 12 Apr 2008 10:15:00 +0000

Here's the bay this morning…not much going on surf wise (a few out) but I think I will go for a paddle anyway, just for the exercise. Those rowers made me feel lazy!

It's been absolutely dire this past week. Last Thursday's lovely morning surf, where I stayed in far too long and had the best left in a long time (several good strong turns and cutting back) is but a lovely memory. April really has come in like a lion, so much wind and rain, but there's not much swell on the horizon. I need some waves!

madness

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:16:00 +0000

Check these two drunks, swimming in their underwear on Sunday morning!

And a foam-covered rock, because I like it.

Quick, the wind dropped!

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:06:00 +0000

Two surfs in one day! I just felt like it, it wasn't that the surf was amazing. Lunchtime session at Tolcarne/GW with Joe from work. Couple of feet, found one nice left, one nice right spoilt by a gawking sponger and a few okay ones which pretty much closed out. The wind had dropped and the sun was out. After work Fistral looked nicer so I ran down for about half an hour before it got dark. Stokesy, Mitch Corbett and Welsh Ben were out there with Brad Kemp snapping, far too much talent for me to surf near so I stayed in the middle, but I got one good right which was all I wanted. Not much hope for the weekend as it's getting stormy again.

Porth Joke

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Wed, 26 Mar 2008 20:07:00 +0000

A little video from the weekend — trying to get the dog to swim in freezing water!

I walked over West Pentire to Porth Joke and rambled on about it here.

Book review: Return By Water, Kimball Taylor

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 22:37:00 +0000

It's subtitled Surf Stories and Adventures — there's no telling what's fiction and what's based on fact; I think it's mostly fact, snippets of the story behind the story which eventually made it into Surfer or whatever publication sent him across the world. Some good, some seemed a little pointless/unfinished, but his style is compelling. It made me want to travel and see this side of the surfing lifestyle — the constant journeying, new cultures, perceptions and discoveries, so far from the cold, inconsistent, crowded UK… 7/10

cookin' up

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 22:23:00 +0000

Four days off, but there's no surf! So I've had some time for creating some gunk!

I made two recipes from The Ultimate Natural Beauty book, both involving cucumber, which I don't like to eat but do like on my face.

Cuke, honey and yoghurt combined (whizzed up) to make a scalp soother - very nice and cooling it was too. I didn't bother peeling it, which made it a little more messy than it had to be… The honey and yoghurt conditioned my hair — I didn't think it had made any difference, but after the final rinse it was softer. I would add a few drops of rosemary and/or tea tree oil which I find lovely for an itchy scalp. Rinse well!

Cuke, whipped egg white and a drop of rosemary essential oil whizzed into a face mask. However hard I try I can't get consistency right on these things! This time it was not reading the instructions properly (my egg white was not stiff) so I don't think I got the full benefit. Absolutely heavenly smell, though, so fresh.

I think these are so similar that I'd probably make the first one and use for both face and hair.

I'll try again, but I am my mother's daughter when it comes to cookin' up — approximates all the way! Approximating my pan of flapjack turned it into a mess (tastes amazing though). And the bread is a bit sticky in the middle…

Work for your camp

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 15:09:00 +0000

Workamper
What a great idea - kind of like WWOOFing but for people who live in RVs (campers). Travel around the US and Canada, stop for free in campgrounds etc. and do a bit of work to pay for your space. I want to go away this weekend and can't afford to (plus I'd probably freeze!). I wish someone did this over here!

storms leave surf

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:20:00 +0000

Storms are over, and there's surf!

It was big and crumbly at Fistral this morning, but surfable. The wind's dropped, it's the most miserable rainy grey day you've ever seen, but there are 2-3ft waves (yeah, and lots of closeouts) in the Bay.

I should be on it! But I left my gear at home. I didn't think it'd be any good…that'll teach me.

I didn't even bring my camera with me today. Other things are getting in the way, but I'll surf tomorrow.

Here's a pretty pink flower from St Mawgan churchyard, taken last weekend.

targets

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 21:58:00 +0000

It's not rocket science

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:29:00 +0000

The MOD have had enough of surfers at a certain break not so far from Bournemouth ignoring them and are reputed to be closing all access to the break. The locals have had enough of people blocking access and speeding through the village as well.

It's not exactly a secret spot, thanks to the likes of Wannasurf and many of the guidebooks, but the real problem is ignorance. The local crew have been quietly enjoying (and respecting) the place for years. Everyone should do the same, whether they're going to the middle of nowhere through a firing range or rocking up at Fistral.

When faced with a classic yet fickle spot doing its thing, where's the sense of awe and respect gone?

Magic Seaweed discussion (the usual ranting)

The Bay comes good

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:21:00 +0000

Nice one. At last!

Joe was well up for it as well, we all (Al too) went to check Whoopsadasies. No-one out, quite clean but a little out of control. So hard to tell from the top of the cliff! We suited up. As I was pulling my hood on the mother of all sets rolled in; the boys didn't see it and paddled straight out. I was a bit behind them. They stopped and started to take little inside ones (head high). I was like, boys, you have not paddled all the way out. As I got to the bottom of the steps a proper set came in and they were inside. I just didn't fancy the paddleout and instead climbed back up those bloody steps!

Went to Great Western instead. Paddled straight out onto a nice peak with a group of northerner 18-year-olds on it, all hooting at closeouts and enjoying the warmer water no doubt. I could tell they're not locals 'cos one smiled and said hello to me! (Sad but true.)

Got quite a few straighanders, two nice lefts where I went along for a little bit with this super steep wall next to my back, just waiting for it to close out but not minding really. Almost pulled into the second one that did that, but hesitated just a touch too long to do it. Next time.

What makes me happy is I managed to get one nice right and work it properly with a few turns. It wasn't amazing but I took off properly, stayed one, bottom and top turned and kept with the power pocket. Was really nice. I also got a pretty long left where I had to spend most of the time going around people! But was still happy with what I did with it.

It was only like two foot out there, but there were some peeling ones, especially earlier on. The later it got the more it closed out as low tide approached. We all took a few really good razor-sharp lip closeouts to the legs and head…several of the boys seemed more excited by being faced with a three foot cylinder about to detonate a foot in front of them than the actual rideable waves. I suppose that's a good way to look at it. There was certainly nothing to be worried about, you only get a quick tumble. (Story of…etc.)

So anyway, I got one great wave and I feel like my trip away (the hassle continues) wasn't wasted, that I did get somewhere. I'm definitely fitter, and must carry on with surfing, swimming, yoga, biking, walking…I do loads actually!

I had the song 'I'm in over my head' playing over and over in the water - not good! I had to forcibly change it to 'I wanna be a rock star'! Talk about talking myself out of surfing! I think I would have been in over my head, Joe said it was quite big and he's been dripping water ever since coming back. I just didn't fancy the struggle, I needed waves to show me that I can bloody surf!

Saturday swell pulse

noreply@blogger.com (surfergrl) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 13:12:00 +0000

Woke early and ready to get on it for the predicted pulse of swell. Still offshore and calm. Drove to Porthtowan and was there by 7.30ish. Freezing. Swift change into horrible heavy rubbery suit. I can't move in that bloody thing! Steve turned up smoking a fag.

We paddled out and I proceeded to be an arse. Two waves he called me into, the second was just a closeout anyway but the first was sweet! But I thought it was closing out on me so puled back. It was about 3ft out there, clean and peeling. A crowd of about ten all in all, it was okay at first just a few, then too many for the one peak. One other girl which was good to see. Steve had some nice ones but his twinny skipped out on at least one I saw. Oh, the waves were so nice! But all I managed to catch was three straighthanders before I had to admit that I couldn't feel my feet, my neck was killing me and I was getting nowhere fast. It was mostly the wetsuit and partly the crowd, I hate both. I know I can surf better than that, I have been doing so for the last two weeks, consistently. I have to get used to the cold again, and I have to not fuck about. Honestly. It was a lovely day, bit hazy but only a gentle offshore and the sun peeked out and the water was glassy. The boogers were loving it, pulling into closeout shorebreaks as I got out. It dropped really, really fast, but that one bank in front of the cliffs at the north end was good.

So I hopped out and changed, had a hot chocolate with mint, sat on the wall and threw sticks for Furtle. Love my van.